Antonio Alessandria for CaFleureBon©
How is it possible that the phenomenally talented Antonio Alessandria is not yet a household name in niche perfumery? In a few short years, he has shown himself to be a master storyteller in fragrance, taking the wearer through mind’s eye journeys marked by a rare specificity and unabashed beauty. I reviewed the evocative, literary Gattopardo, his newest, only a few weeks ago (Fara is still in the works).
Flower fireworks, photos by Sarah Illenberger©
But I couldn’t wait to introduce you to Fleurs et Flammes, a fiery, flowery composition with a yearning heart. It is quite simply one of the most stunning florals I’ve come across for a long while.
The Melodrama of Melting fashion editorial, photo by L Ramachandran, Solis magazine, 2017©
Built around carnation but by no means a soliflore, Antonio Alessandria Fleurs et Flammes is an olfactory merging of memory and dream. Alessandria’s recollections of the progress of a July festival day guides the composition. It starts with the stemmy green of fresh cut flowers and fernlike foliage gathered from the village market on a hot morning. There is a veritable sense of sunny heat in the opening: the spicy top notes of carnation mingling with the pungent bite of galbanum and citrus give the effect of the morning cool burning off.
Photo by Steven Klein for Vogue, April 2018©
In the second stage, which travels in quickly, a lush, almost creamy rose turns up alongside the carnation. It feels as if Antonio Alessandria Fleurs et Flammes has moved indoors for a bit: the floral and plant notes hush, and as deeper, quieter. The carnation is continuing to open, its lactonic qualities spreading out like cream in parallel to a second milky note, the flower’s innate warmth expands.
Fireworks over Turin, photo by Atemporale Design, Flickr
Antonio Alessandria Fleurs et Flammes is beautiful from the moment it begins. But now, the truly magical part of the fragrance bursts open: Alessandria recreates the experience of fireworks with a pop of fizz from aldehydes, a flinty note that subtly suggests gunpowder, and the unmistakable smell of burning candles. In his marketing copy, Alessandria relates that in his little boy imagination, the market flowers “turned into flames and the pungent smell of fireworks was merged with the scent of flowers kept in the shade while the sun was burning outside.” Astonishingly, that is precisely what happens in Fleur et Flammes’ development now.
Children playing in Italy, photo Bored Panda©
As Fleurs et Flammes wends towards dry-down, the flowers, greenery, candle wax and mineral notes meld softly like the soft-focus edges of an older memory – and its reminiscent aromas rekindle one of mine: standing in an old piazza in Venice on a brilliantly sunny late May day; the rushy splash of an ancient fountain beside me, two little boys playing and laughing, the sun a wash of gold on the faded stone walls. It was a moment of perfect happiness, and I am wearing it on my wrist right now.
Notes: Bergamot, citrus, summer fruits, galbanum, green and mineral notes, carnation, rose, lily, white flowers, soft woods, almond milk effect, musk.
Disclaimer: Sample of Fleur et Flammes provided kindly by Antonio Alessandria at Esxence. My opinions are my own.
-Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Antonio Alessandria Fleurs et Flammes courtesy of Antonio©
We have an 8 ml bottle of Antonio Fleurs et Flammes for TWO registered readers in the U.S., Canada or Europe. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Fleurs et Flammes based on Lauryn’s review, and what childhood memory you would like turned into perfume. If you think another Antonio Alessandria Perfume sounds appealing please let us know. Draw closes July 1, 2018.
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