I have not been a fan of the last couple of releases from Serge Lutens both Nuit de Cellophane and L’Eau de Serge Lutens had the desired “anti-perfume” vibe M. Lutens was going for but I didn’t care for them. Bas de Soie is the latest release from Serge Lutens and based on the early information it seemed as this was going to be a continuation of that theme.  It was described as a fragrance focused on two notes that of iris and hyacinth. That pair has also had occasion to leave me cold in the past as both of those floral notes have had a distinct metallic character on my skin. I was expecting an olfactory sword fight when I tried Bas de Soie. Much to my surprise I did find that both of these central notes would do battle but of a lyrical kind akin to a balletic pas de deux. Each has time when they are the only player on stage and then they interact differently and find a lyrical poetic harmony that changes over time on my skin.

M. Lutens chooses to let hyacinth appear on stage first. He chooses to allow the greener facets of hyacinth to prevail early on and with a bit of galbanum also present it tames the edgier aspects of hyacinth. Those edges begin to peek out and then it is joined by its partner iris in the form of a deep orris. I have found the better the quality of the orris used the more complexity that is present. The orris used in Bas de Soie is very high quality because as it takes its place next to the hyacinth it shows off a muscular floral aspect without any of the sharpness I often get from iris. The middle part of Bas de Soie is almost homage to the sharp metallic qualities of both hyacinth and iris. It is a figurative knife fight as both notes turn chilly and bear that familiar metallic tinge to them. Unlike in other fragrances where that metallic aspect appears in Bas de Soie I found it felt complementary and appropriate.  For the last part of Bas de Soie the stage is given over to the iris as, its figurative sword sheathed, it is allowed to regain the warmth with which it first appeared. Along with the iris is a green muguet to echo the green aspects from the top which allows Bas de Soie to circle back to where this fragrant ballet began.

Bas de Soie shows a departure for Serge Lutens from his “anti-perfume” track and it is perhaps the greenest of any of his fragrances. For those of you who like Iris Silver Mist I think Bas De Soie will be an enjoyable alternative without treading much of the same ground. For those who like strong floral partnerships I think the floral dance that Bas de Soie presents will make you stand up and breathe deeply in pleasure.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample purchased from The Perfumed Court.

Art Credits via Wikimedia Commons:

Edgar Degas-Harlekin und Colombine

Maria Sybilla Merian- Waterhyazinthe, Baumfrosche und Wasserwanzen

Vincent Van Gogh-Irises

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor