New Perfume Review: Euphorium Brooklyn Butterfly (Stephen Dirkes) 2017 +The Flight of The Monarch ButterfliesDraw

Like the soft caress of a feather on your cheek, Euphorium Brooklyn’s new eau de parfum Butterfly, lands on the skin as sleekly and weightlessly as the sheerest chiffon scarf, a scent to make you smile and revel in joy. 

Stephen Dirkes Euphorium Brooklyn talfoto.com

Since arriving on the scene two years ago, self-taught perfumer Stephen Dirkes has created stunning and unique perfumes (Pétales, Cilice, Suédios, and Chocolatl among others) using only the very finest ingredients; precious oils, tinctures, and absolutes, and the results are a range of scents as interesting and compelling as Brooklyn itself. His studio is based in the Greenpoint neighborhood of northern Brooklyn, and the neighborhood itself was partially the genesis for this newest bright and lively perfume.

Map of Greenpoint showing streets that that longer exist as industrial early waterfront areas, 1891

As Mr. Dirkes describes it…“Located in the Greenpoint neighborhood of Brooklyn’s northern most waterfront cradled by the New Town Creek and East River, Euphorium Brooklyn has long been an oasis of decadence in the midst of an industrial wasteland. From early 18th century settlements and the development of 19th century boat building & chemical industries, the waterfront somehow escaped development. In these “wilds” of North Brooklyn, stands of milkweed, grasses, and wildflowers flourished and have remained largely intact until the present.”

Alexander McQueen Spring Summer-2011  ©

"Situated on the migratory path of the Monarch butterfly’s incredible journey from Canada to Mexico and back, the butterflies discovered the rich flora on Greenpoint’s water’s edge for themselves, establishing a marvel of nature with seasonal clouds of butterflies signaling the start of summer in this otherwise grey industrial corner of New York City. Butterflies are sustained by a wide variety of colorful and fragrant nectar flowers and weeds of all types. Most unique is their relationship to the milkweed plant. Highly toxic to most animals, claiming the lives of horses that forge on milkweed, the butterfly is able to utilize the milkweed’s toxins to protect itself. With an ability to safely ingest the toxins and move them to their exoskeleton, the butterflies themselves become toxic to predators to defend themselves and also lay eggs to become larvae on the milkweed plants to protect the next generation. BUTTERFLY Eau de Pafum is based on the fragrant plant life that sustains butterflies and their habitat. Although perhaps a peculiar starting point to develop a fragrance palette, butterflies have done a remarkable job of curating a wide range of fragrant floral, mint, grass, & herbaceous notes for a perfumer to work with.” -Stephen Dirkes

Edun 2012 Campaign  ©

If you’ve never had the opportunity to see a Monarch butterfly migration, it is experiential in the same way as seeing the northern lights for the very first time, stunning, unbelievable and absolutely unforgettable. While growing up in Northern California, one of the “requisite” fourth grade field trips was to go see the monarch butterflies as they over-wintered along the coast. As our school bus trundled down the hill towards foggy Bolinas Bay, we drove past Eucalyptus trees completely blanketed with Monarch butterflies. The sight of hundreds of thousands butterflies covering the trees, is jaw-dropping and at times a bit unsettling in a scary-movie way, especially to a kid.

Elza Luijendijk Wears Butterfly Beauty for Ben Toms' Dazed & Confused ©

Opening with a cool arctic blast of mint tempered by the earthy and slightly bitter oakmoss, Butterfly is a scent that is very easy to wear for both men and women, and sometimes “easy” is exactly what you want to reach for in the dog-days of summer.

Gemma Ward at Alexander McQueen Fall 2006

Butterfly is both cooling and refreshing, slightly reminiscent of the alcohol-stinging slap of a barbershop aftershave, but much richer and complex from the floral notes of lilac and geranium. The oakmoss is ever present and if that’s a note that has heretofore scared you away, in Butterfly it is as skillfully mastered and blended as anything I’ve ever tried.

Alexander McQueen Spring-Summer 2008 Butterfly Hat by milliner Phillip Treacy

The laurel adds a slight camphorous vibe, and the brook water (yes you read that right) keeps the whole combination bright, clear, and sparkling, providing that airy and slight tickle that you would imagine feeling if a Monarch butterfly landed on the palm of your hand, its orange and black wings glistening as they slowly open and close, unfolding in a ravishing jewel-like display. Butterfly by Euphorium Brooklyn with its unearthly and ethereal  beauty is going right to the top of my full bottle buy list and just may be  my go-to fougére for summer 2017.

Notes: Violet, Lilac, Lavender, Geranium, Marigold, Wild Mint, Mountain Laurel, Hyssop, Milkweed, Scarlet Sage, Artemisia, Sweet Clover, Grasses, Moss and Brook Water

Disclosure: Many thanks to Twisted Lily and Euphorium Brooklyn for supplying the sample. Opinions my own.

(Photographer:Tal Shpantzer)

May 17th Stephen will be at Twisted Lily launching a 8 ml set of fragrance and butterfly garden seeds

-Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Photo: (Tal Shpantzer) talfoto.com

 Thanks to Euphorium Brooklyn we have a 50 ml of Butterfly for a registered reader in the USA. Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you thought of Robert’s review, and if you have a favorite Euphorium Brooklyn perfume. Draw closes 5/15/2017.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like  Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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22 comments

  • Fabulous review, such a great description! This was my favorite part.

    Butterfly is both cooling and refreshing, slightly reminiscent of the alcohol-stinging slap of a barbershop aftershave, but much richer and complex from the floral notes of lilac and geranium. The oakmoss is ever present and if that’s a note that has heretofore scared you away, in Butterfly it is as skillfully mastered and blended as anything I’ve ever tried.
    I love all of Euphorium Brooklyn’s scents but Pétales has a special place in my heart. Thank you for the generous giveaway, I live in the U.S.

  • Great review ,in depth detail,fantastic pics,really spot on.
    My favorite Euphorium Brooklyn perfume is Usar! awesome fragrance this really is a fantastic house,I really wanna win this,oh thnx for giveaway really generous . u.s. resident .

  • gregorysop says:

    Perfect timing on this one, definitely needing a fresh new refresh of a scent for the spring/summer seasons. This one has so much going on but apparently skewed towards the mossy and mint notes according to info that I found on it. This new fragrance sounds like a winner, congratulations to EB for its future success.
    From USA

  • fazalcheema says:

    This Butterfly perfume by Stephen seems quite different from his previous creations many of whom had gourmand feel. It is interesting he has taken inspiration from Butterflies. i do wonder why I don’t see butterflies in NY. Thanks a lot for the generous draw. I am in US.

  • This sounds so unique I’d love to have. I want to experience that brook water. I did enjoy Robert’s inclusion of butterfly facts. USA

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    This sounds like a welcome, fresh take on a beautiful herbaceous perfume! I love that milkweed is an included note. And sweet clover. And hyssop. And that the oakmoss is skillfully intertwined. Thank you for the great review, Robert!

    Suedois is my favorite from this line. USA. Thank you as always!!!

  • Eric meyers says:

    The story about the butterflies had me captivated. Made me want to check this out even more. From oklahoma

  • Richard Potter says:

    Robert’s always teachin’ us something. I had no idea the Monarchs stopped in Greepoint. Robert’s enthusiasm for this and the unusual list of notes make me want to try this

  • doveskylark says:

    It was fascinating to learn that butterflies use milkweed to protect themselves. This review made me want to see the migration of butterflies.
    I haven’t tried anything from this house, but Cilice sounds wonderful.
    I live in the USA.

  • NiceVULady says:

    Robert’s use of language is always so beautiful and evocative. I have tried Suedios and really liked it a lot. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA.

  • I’ve never tried any of Euphorium’s scents. I loved Robert’s review. The concept of Monarch Butterflies and their group migration is extremely intriguing The description of the unique fragrance is also intriguing. It looks like all green and florals notes. I need this badly. I’m in the U.S.. Thank you so much.

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    Cool and refreshing sounds lovely for the hot days ahead. Oakmoss does make me apprehensive, but sounds as if it plays nicely here. I have not had the opportunity to sample from this house to date. I live in the US.

  • I would love a new Spring/Summer perfume. Reading the notes lilac, lavender and violet along with oakmoss leads me to believe this could something special. If this Butterfly is going right to the top of Robert’s full bottle buy list that’s good enough for me. 🙂 U.S.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Super-duper article & review! The epic migration & incredible Monarch butterfly is nature’s most remarkable phenomena. These butterflies use milkweed to protect themselves is something strange. Like Butterfly, the perfume Euphorium Brooklyn Butterfly seems cool, tender and strong. Oakmoss is my top most favorite note, so this is definitely for me. Last year I bought Cilice its awesome.
    Thanks to Euphorium Brooklyn for the generosity and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw by letting my relative address in US.

  • Christina M says:

    This scent sounds absolutely amazing. I love violet in all scents but don’t own anything at all that sounds this unique. It seems as if it would be a wonderfully refreshing summer scent!

    I love reviews with a bit of “history” behind the scent so the information on the butterflies was my favorite part.

    I haven’t been fortunate enough to try any of the Euphorium Brooklyn scents but Wald and Usar sound like they are meant for me so they are going on my sample list.

    Thanks to Euphorium Brooklyn for the generous donation and to Cafleurebon for hosting the draw! (I am in the US)

  • I have always wanted to go to that place in Mexico where the butterflies spend their winter. It must be a fabulous sight. This sounds like an easy to wear perfume for hot summer days. I have not tried any perfumes from this line as of yet. Thanks for the description, Robert! USA

  • This was a beautifully written and informative review. I did not know much about the Monarch Butterfly before reading this review. Shameful, I know. I could say “you had me at Oakmoss..”, however I really enjoy the fact that this fragrance was conceived around the many different kinds of plant life a butterfly would be drawn to or encounters on it’s long journey. For this reason, above my obsession with Oakmoss fragrances, I would love to try this fragrance. I love fougere’s in general and am also intrigued by the mint note which was mentioned. Thanks so much for this opportunity. Robert, thank you for sharing ( as you often do), the personal connections you have to the fragrance. I could totally imagine being a kid and seeing all those butterflies on the trees… Rather scary as an adult as well! Lol I live in the US.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Wow – I never would have paired minty freshness with butterflies – but I can see it, especially with oakmoss and other earthy notes. Beautiful photos of butterflies. I have never tried a Euphorium Brooklyn perfume, but there are many that interest me!

  • It’s on my bucket list to see the butterfly migration. They make me think of my sister, because she absolutely hates butterflies. I’ve never tried a Euphorium Brooklyn perfume, so this would be my first. I live in the US

  • I enjoyed Robert’s review and would love to see a Monarch butterfly migration. It sounds amazing! I have not yet had the pleasure of wearing an Euphorium Brooklyn perfume

  • Robert’s review was great (loved the art too, Michelyn!) and I loved the way he superimposed the butterfly’s story & migration to the perfume review.

    I am relatively new to Euphorium Brooklyn. I recently (thanks to a very dear friend who is also a registered reader here) sample vials of Cilice, Petales and Wald. Of those three: Cilice is the most sigh & swoon-worthy!!

    US reader here. My oldest sister is also an avid butterfly lover and soft-core [erfumista (lol) so I sent her a link to this article.

    Stephen Dirkes is very talented and even if I don’t win this great (and very generous) draw I will be getting samples of the line ASAP.

    Thanks and brightest blessings! GP xox

  • RoseMacaroon says:

    I love how the monarch butterfly’s life and habits became the introduction to notes in the pergume, that waa fantastic! It sounds reallt distinctive and like something that would bedan excellent all-occasion, hot-weather frag.
    Thanks for the review! I didn’t know of this line, and i’m so happy i do.
    Im in the US.