New Fragrance Review: Aftelier Perfumes Curious (Mandy Aftel) 2017 + Curiouser and Curiouser Draw

Mandy Aftel standing in the door of the Aftel Archive of Curious Scents (photo for CaFleureBon) June 2017

When the Queen of Green, perfumer Mandy Aftel –  decided to create the Aftel Archive of Curious Scents (a fascinating new space next door to her own home where the inquisitive may satisfy their aromatic curiosity with access to over 300 natural essences!) – She also composed a deliciously smoky new perfume to accompany it: Curious.

Curiouser and Curiouser! Chapter 2. John Tenniel's illustrations  of Alice in Wonderland

CHAPTER II

The Pool of Tears

`Curiouser and curiouser!' cried Alice (she was so much surprised, that for the moment she quite forgot how to speak good English); `now I'm opening out like the largest telescope that ever was! Good-bye, feet!' (for when she looked down at her feet, they seemed to be almost out of sight, they were getting so far off). `Oh, my poor little feet, I wonder who will put on your shoes and stockings for you now, dears? I'm sure I shan't be able! I shall be a great deal too far off to trouble myself about you: you must manage the best way you can; –but I must be kind to them,' thought Alice, `or perhaps they won't walk the way I want to go! Let me see: I'll give them a new pair of boots every Christmas.'                                                                                                                 ~ Lewis Carroll, from Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

Alice meets the flowers in Lewis Carroll's Through the Looking Glass. Illustration by artist John Tenniel.

Lewis Carroll's Alice in Wonderland may have drunk from that bottle labeled “Drink Me”, and shrunk – then proceeded to nibble the little cake which entreated ,”Eat Me” –  and GROWN. Neither of these occurrences will one experience when anointing the self with her latest perfumed release, I assure you. There exists a lovely wildness in its beauty with no possibility of harm. According to my dear spouse, Mandy's flacon would be well named as SNIFF ME.

Claude Monet, Haystacks, sunset, 1890

Curious is warm, enveloping and full of the welcome generosity which its fragrant components provide. To describe it simply as a tobacco / hay perfume would be doing it a disservice. I am a tobacco person, although I do not smoke. I'm also very much a hay person, and it delights me to bury my nose in it, roll in it, and recline lazily against a haystack at the height of estival heat – scratchy though it may be.

Mist Painting – Westminster Tower by Claude Monet

I adore a campfire and ghostly tales disclosed long after the sun has gone to bed.

Branch of Orange Bearing Fruit, 1884 – Claude Monet

Mandy characterizes Curious as belonging to the Musk olfactory category because of its multiple animalic attributes. While I see her point, I find Curious challenging to classify: its initial explosive burnt wood smoke note is sweetened by an extraordinary French absolute utilizing every imaginable part of the bitter orange: blossom, twig, leaf.

1872, Parisiennes in Algerian Costume.Pierre August Renoir

It feels profoundly Eastern to me at this point in its development, like a dish in which charred fruit is combined with more savory ingredients. Siam wood is so creamy, nutty, and balsamic, and possesses coumarinic aspects one anticipates in a fine hay absolute (not to be had cheaply), commonly imported from France. The herbaceous, jammy sunlit aroma of hay is complex and inviting; dilution is key, as with many materials (aged hay absolutes may fool the less experienced nose because of their intensity: much darker upon first sniff, they bloom when given the capacity to breathe via dilution).  

Odalisque An Algerian Woman, 1870 – Pierre-Auguste Renoir

Tobacco shares several olfactory facets, including smoky, balsamic, honeyed tones. For me, a 'dirty orange' would infer that very nature of white flowers – their reminder that we are enjoying the very sex organs of plant life. This pinpoints the approach / avoidance many of us feel towards their indolic aspects. Curious satisfies many cravings – sweet, tart, nutty, smoky, balsamic, wood-singed, wantonly floral. Chiaroscuro comes into play: illumination by means of sun and flame, a cool sip of tart juice commingled with creamy sagacity of unkindled heartwood. The unbridled sensuality of blossoms on the verge of last exhalation.

Such a macrocosm in every tiny drop..

Drawers of Ingredients from Mandy's Archives of Curious Scents  (photo Aftelier Perfumes).

Notes: Tobacco, hay, smoke, orange leaf, Siam wood, dirty orange.

Disclaimer: Sample provided very kindly by Mandy Aftel. Opinions are my own.

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor

Aftelier Perfumes:The handpainted French Impressionsist Post Card (www.aftelier.com)

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen Editor-in-Chief. In addition to the illustrations from Alice in Wonderland I used French Impressionistic Art as Mandy’s site evokes that style of painting.

Thanks to the generosity of Aftelier Perfumes, Mandy Aftel is offering a 2 ml mini parfum of Curious  (value of $50) to one registered reader Worldwide– in celebration of Mandy opening her new Archive to the public. Don’t know how to register, follow the prompt here. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what you found curious and appealing in Ida’s review, your favorite Aftelier perfume, and where you live. Draw closes 6/30/2017

We announce our winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleurebon and use our RSS Feed...or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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21 comments

  • RoseMacaroon says:

    Lord, have I been wanting to try an Aftelier since forever, and still nothing. So I can say the ones I’ve most coveted a sniff of based on notes are: Current Gardenia, Secret Garden, Parfum Prive, Bergamoss, and Vanilla Smoke — and now, definitely this. I have huge affinities for tobacco, hay, and all parts of bitter orange, so just love the description of the interplay here — also, a comparison to Impressionist painting! ! Wow wow and WOW!
    Thanks so much for this chance,
    I live in the US.

  • Oh Ida. Thank goodness for folks like you who describe a scent SO eloquently. i just couldn’t put words to how I feel about Curious, it’s breathtaking.
    This was my favorite part of the review.

    Mandy characterizes Curious as belonging to the Musk olfactory category because of its multiple animalic attributes. While I see her point, I find Curious challenging to classify: its initial explosive burnt wood smoke note is sweetened by an extraordinary French absolute utilizing every imaginable part of the bitter orange: blossom, twig, leaf.
    I love all of Mandy’s creations but Vanilla Smoke is my absolute favorite.
    Thank you for the very generous giveaway, I live in the U.S.

  • NiceVULady says:

    “Curious satisfies many cravings – sweet, tart, nutty, smoky, balsamic, wood-singed, wantonly floral. Chiaroscuro comes into play: illumination by means of sun and flame, a cool sip of tart juice commingled with creamy sagacity of unkindled heartwood. The unbridled sensuality of blossoms on the verge of last exhalation.” After that description, one would indeed be curious. I have no Aftelier fragrances, so this would be a first. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Samantha Reed says:

    Curious sounds like it is VERY much in my wheelhouse.
    The notes…tobacco, hay, smoke, orange leaf, Siam wood, dirty orange…are so appealing to me and now I’m so curious to smell this wonderful new creation from Mandy Aftel! It sounds like it’s wonderfully comforting and like it would be a fantastic Autumn/Winter scent.
    Thank you for the review and for this fabulous giveaway!

  • I live in Germany, but I’d be super curious to visit Mandy Aftels archive. Sounds like heaven to me. And the newscent makes me curious too, very interesting materials. i know only Tango and Amber from Mandy Aftel, of these two I like Tango more. I read both her books on perfume with great pleasure though.
    Thanks for this draw!

  • I’m in the USA.

    Three things about this review of Aftel’s Curious piqued my interest:

    1) Alice in Wonderland. I’m sort of obsessed. I love trying scents inspired by this story.

    2) The Tobacco Note. One of the only things I’ve tried from Aftelier is the Tobacco note. I make incense using the best ingredients I can find. And her Tobacco is sublime.

    3) Using all parts of the Bitter Orange. I am fascinated by scents that use all the different fragrances of the source. And bitter orange is one of the best scents ever, so I don’t see how it could go wrong.

    Gosh I hope I win this draw.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Definitely sounds up my alley! Smoky hay? Wood? orange leaf, blossom, and fruit? Superb! I love how Ida describes Curious as satisfying a variety of fragrant urges–woody, sweet, smoky, etc., etc. etc. I love Mandy Aftel’s scents, most notably Cuir Gardenia, Tango, and Secret Garden. Thank you so much for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • I love Alice in Wonderland as the opening context for this fragrance. Sampling new perfumes really IS a curious experience as you sense around the olfactory landscape for the first time. I’m a long-time admirer of Many Aftel’s (I’ve read her books too), but I’ve yet to sample – I’d LOVE to try this one as I’m a huge fan of anything with a strong hay note. Thanks for the generous draw. I’m in the US.

  • Hi, I love Alice in Wonderland and Through the looking glass so the images and text around « curious and curiouser » and Alice’s transformations aroused my own curiosity. It made me think of Curious as a perfume really complex, shifting in an instant from one scent to another completly different. But as the post continues, the link with nature and Mandy’s Aftel Archive of Curious Scents push the natural side of the perfume to the front row, supported by the shades of impressionists paintings. In the end, I imagine this perfume as a walk in the countryside, where curiosity makes you cross a fence to a wheat field, smell wild flowers as you progress on a shady path, enter barns where tobacco leaves are hanging, the heat of summer making all scents really present. For me, Ida describes a really rich and appealing perfume. I live in France, this post made me discover Aftelier perfumes and definitly made me curious.

  • Words like explosive burnt wood, dirty orange and wantonly floral drag me in, not that I need dragging- I’ll walk willingly to anything Mandy creates 🙂 and Ida, a way with words and one could be forgiven to wonder if there’s an exaggeration there but no- because its Mandy you know absolutely that all of this is correct and accurate. So thats what I loved about the review- the delirious trail we are taken apon, willingly and whole heartedly. Happy to sacrifice myself to the place where the perfume actually touches my skin. Right now I’m loving Oud Laba which was gifted to me . Thanks for the generous worldwide draw.

  • Hmm… I never would have considered hay to be jammy… Herbaceous yes, but jammy is a new thought. I love bitter orange note as well as tobacco, although my skin seems to amplify tobacco at times to the exclusion of all else. :-/ however, I would enjoy trying this fragrance because I haven’t tried anything from Aftelier before and also because my ” curiousity” is now piqued. Yes, yes, a very bad reference, I know. 😉 I live in the USA. thanks for the opportunity to possibly win and sample this new fragrance.

  • I am curious to know how the smoke in the this fragrance plays with the other notes. Is it enveloping or is it fleeting? I don’t often seek out smoky fragrances, but I imagine that the hay, wood, and orange in Curious parfum meld with smoke in an appealing way.

    I’ve not yet tried a fragrance from Aftelier. I am in the southwest US, and I dream of a road trip to visit the new fragrance Archive . Thank you to Ida for the review. My interest is piqued. And thank you to Mandy Aftel for the generous draw and for sharing her fragrant world with us.

  • Greennote says:

    I love Mandy’s generosity – with her time, her knowledge, and now her space and collections. I have been wanting to smell her work for so long, knowing the high regard people have for it. But this one, this one Ida just makes me want to go and press the buy button right now and never mind the shipping costs. The note list is glorious as is the Monet haystack. I’m in Australia (and if there is a winner from outside North America, I applaud Mandy’s generosity even more).

  • doveskylark says:

    I am very curious about the dirty orange note. I like the line about “enjoying the very sex organs of plant life.” I wonder if that’s why I like indolic scents so much. I like Mandy Aftels’s Memento Mori. I look forward to visiting the Archive someday.
    I live in the USA.

  • MichelleU says:

    Curious and appealing must be the combination between tobacco and hay. Quite curious and interesting nonetheless.

    I am a reader from the EU! Wish you all the best!

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Mmm, this sounds delicious and warming. I find it curious that there is a feeling of charred fruit in this fragrance. So interesting! And also appealing – smoke + sweeter fruity notes sounds delicious. My mouth is watering. I don’t have a favorite Aftelier perfume! I live in the US.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    This sounds amazing! Congratulations for new Archive opening! The notes are fascinating & when it is the creation of Mandy then no doubt and no words, and Ida saying as “Such a macrocosm in every tiny drop…” So I am curious as it is Curious.
    Thanks to the generosity of Aftelier Perfumes and CafleureBon for the opportunity. Pakistan

  • I am curious about Siam wood.
    I love how Ida describes Curious as tabacco-hay fragrance with smoke, sweet fruits. It is interesting how smell this complex!
    I’ve never tested Aftelier perfume.
    Armenia

  • Wow, what an exciting review from Ida! When I saw the words tobacco, hay, bitter orange, and wood along with Aftelier, I almost squealed. I’m most curious about the Siam wood combined with “dirty orange” or bitter orange. I have Honey Blossom and love Secret Garden. I also have Ancient Resins – one the most gorgeous Frankincense oils I’ve ever tried. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the U.S.

  • Haven’t tried a scent from this house but this one sounds divine! Great review! I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw!