Erte Queen of the Night
No matter how difficult politics, the economy or our own personal lives get, beauty is always a consolation, and in times of trouble, the aesthetes among us look to adornment for comfort. During the Great Depression, the style of decorative arts and architecture known as Art Deco flourished because it represented a streamlined, sleek and sophisticated hope for progress.
Chanel 1932 Tribute Fine Jewelry Collection, 2012
In November 1932, Coco Chanel presented her first fine jewelry line, which was inspired by the stars in the sky, executed in an Art Deco style, and comprised primarily of white diamonds. The move may have seemed counterintuitive during a worldwide economic disaster, but lovely things have an intrinsic value to our souls, and this collection cemented the House of Chanel's position as a serious fashion contender. To honor the 80th anniversary of this milestone, in 2012 Chanel introduced a tribute jewelry collection and house perfumeur Jacques Polge debuted 1932 eau de parfum as part of the Les Exclusifs de Chanel line. The company recently premiered a parfum extrait version of the fragrance that represents the culmination of this idea of a glittering future.
Coco Chanel wearing "Bijoux de Diamants" circ 1930s (Photo Chanel)
Like Les Exclusifs 1932 Eau de Toilette, Chanel 1932 Parfum opens with a burst of signature Chanel aldehydes that sparkle like the witty conversation from a 1930s screwball comedy; additional top notes of neroli and bergamot serve chiefly to set off their clarity. Aldehydes are especially suited to the Art Deco inspiration, as the style relied on new man-made substances such as Bakelite to create its futuristic bent and Chanel's popularization of synthetic aldehydes in perfumery opened up a new level of creativity in the art.
Carole Lombard in white satin gown
The heart of 1932 in both forms is an elegant jasmine. While our review of 1932 Eau De Toilette found it to be sophisticated but straightforward, in the extrait version, the flower's simple, clean lines are softened by perceptible additional florals of rose, lilac, carnation, and ylang ylang, in effect transforming the hardness of a diamond into the smoothness of a bias cut white satin evening gown.
After a time, base notes of opoponax and orris add a powdery sweetness, and sandalwood, ambrette, vanilla and coumarin mellow the fragrance further. The jasmine is always present, but towards the end of its cycle, the perfume presents more like a woody oriental than a floral. After slipping into her gown, the starlet applies her makeup at a dressing table made of aged fine wood furniture.
The Les Exclusifs perfume bottle (15 ml) is a small jewel itself, with a Deco style silhouette. At this concentration, longevity is excellent (14 hours and counting for me), and sillage is soft but noticeable. If one cannot afford diamonds, 1932 Parfum makes a splendid substitute.
15ml/$200 available at Chanel Boutiques
Disclosure: This review was based on a bottle provided by Chanel USA for promotional consideration.
–Nancy Knows, Editor and editor of the perfume blog Make Perfume, Not War