Many perfumes and perfumers have had their share of “buzz” since I first came on the fragrance scene in late 2009. One name that comes up again and again, on both the blogs and perfume forums, is Olympic Orchids. From the very first time I heard of Olympic Rainforest and learned Dr. Ellen Covey also raised orchids and made a full line of other natural based products, I was sure they would be great. My position at CaFleureBon has afforded me a unique opportunity, as Natural Perfume Editor, to get acquainted with not only many new and wondrous perfumes, inspired by nature, but skilled perfumers who use natural essences in their fragrances as well.
Dr. Ellen Covey
When my samples arrived, I was excited as I had only smelled one of her fragrances previously. What a diverse and evoctative line. Her samples are a perfect size and are capped glass sprayers, not vials with dipsticks. The attention Dr. Covey uses when creating her perfumes carries through to her carefully hand wrapped packaging. Ellen Covey works with high quality natural materials and uses synthetics to add different facets and qualities to her scents while still remaining true to their inspiration.
Stuck in the house during the "polar vortex", with wind chills as low as -20 F, had an upside; I had time to explore this extremely diverse line. One scent in particular captured not only my nose, but my imagination, and really excited me with its originality and utter strangeness. Fleurs de Glace (Ice Flowers), from 2011, fragrantly captures the crystallization of ice, in its myriad and infinite forms. It does so with mostly synthetic ingredients that truly captures the sharp, severe beauty of the often floral-looking ice formations. The initial blast is a wintry gale that swirls about you and literally chills your nose, a bit like Jack Frost nipping at it.
Images of a pale large waning moon shining through thin wispy veils of clouds came to mind while the constellation Orion twinkles brightly in the sky. Snow blows and drifts as a vaguely metallic aroma describes the palpable coldness with ozonic notes resembling the scent that clings to you when coming in from the cold. Black pepper and galbanum shimmer with a graceful luminescence, not unlike the Aurora Borealis. As the initial frost subsides, a delicate Persian violet appears somewhat timidly with drops of water dancing off of it. This kinder softer violet has no lipstick feel to it, nor is it like powder; it is just plush resembling cold stark white velvet. The far dry down of a cool frothy vanilla dissolving into a dry and elegant musk clings fiercely, yet gracefully to skin. Truly a unique perfume Fleurs de Glace is worth trying, even if you’re not a big violet or vanilla fan, because it is just so unusual. Sillage: good. Longevity: very good.
After a thorough chill, it is good to warm up. Olympic Amber, also from 2011, does just that. Meant to be a base for other perfumes, this smelled so good people wanted it “as is” and I can smell why. Many amber scents come off very oriental and concentrate more on its exotic nature and uses in perfumery, adding spices and rich floral notes. This perfume, however, has a decidedly more “western” feel to it. Foregoing any dry ground or even fresh spices, this concentrates on the sensuality of resins, surrounding a duet between smoky vanilla and incense.
Crumbling together labdanum, benzoin and opoponax Dr. Covey creates amber where there really was none. The combined accord captures the sweetness of the balm as well as its golden warmth. As this unfurled on my skin, it oozed a very subtle balsamic piney note that made me think of mighty trees and soft forest floors. Though I have never seen the forests of the Pacific Northwest, I now feel like I have smelled them. Alternating in consistency from golden flowing sap to dense sweet elegance, this is not a complex fragrance. Olympic Amber possesses a great character and comfortable depth though, as it glistens and glows, before finally fading into its darker dénouement of subtle patchouli while leaving behind an enticing incense trail. Sillage: average. Longevity: good.
Disclosure: Reviews based on EDP samples sent to me by Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes.
Olympic Orchids newly redesigned website and flacons
Editor’s Note: For the rest of January EVERYTHING on the website is 20% off with the code INTRO20 (international shipping rates apply). Dr. Covey will be discontinuing Fleurs de Glace soon and it is available for a great price. If it sounds like something you would like, I advise you to get some before this wonderful perfume melts away like ice under a warm spring sun.. All scents are available in EDP or perfume extrait concentration. Both samples reviewed were eau de parfum.
"Fire and Ice" via elfwood.com
Thanks to Olympic Orchids we have a 30 ml EDP of either Fleurs de Glace or Olympic Amber to give away to one reader. This is a US resident only draw. To be eligible, please leave a comment stating which Olympic Orchids perfume you like best (or would love to try) and whether you are more “ice” or “fire” when it comes to perfume. Draw will close January 26, 2014.
-John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor
We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.