Esxence 2016: Sammarco Alter, Bond-T, Vitrum, Ariel (Dr Giovanni Sammarco) ~Fragrance Reviews + Haute Couture for The Nose Draw

Dr Giovanni Sammarco of Sammarco Perfumes Esxence 2016

Sammarco Exhibit at Esxence 2016 and Dr Giovanni Sammarco who is the perfumer for Sammarco; love the little charms on the bottle (photos: Sammarco)

If you asked me directly what my favorite note in perfume was, I would answer without hesitation “rose”.  The bottles on my vanity give a different answer, however; as I glance over at them, I realize that jasmine is what parts me from my money most often.

As Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen was walking the show at Esxence in Milan  with perfumer/fragrance expert Darryl Do of Delbia Do in tow, both stopped dead in their tracks at the Sammarco booth where they smelt an incredibly beautiful jasmine sambac fragrance, both agreed it was the best jasmine sambac they have encountered; it was obvious that a very high degree of natural ingredients was used. It was a fragrance called Alter and Michelyn  called  me when she got back from Italy and told me about her Jasmine Encounter.  Dr. Sammarco was kind enough to send me a sample and I immediately understood why Michelyn was so impressed.

The Haute Couture - Vogue Italia by Paolo Roversi, September 2011

The Haute Couture – Vogue Italia by Paolo Roversi, September 2011

The insanely beautiful jasmine sambac rises like a benediction out of the vial, consecrating the air with its beauty. It’s positively intoxicating and exactly like being surrounded by huge garlands of jasmine on a warm, humid night; there’s no telling what might happen and you’ll be disappointed if nothing does. A lovely rose enhances the jasmine, while something warm purrs seductively in the heart. Resinous incense turns what begins as a heady floral perfume into a very rich, sensual one.

Paolo roversi

Paolo Roversi

My husband interrupted me every time I wore Alter for testing. (It blooms beautifully in the shower, by the way, and would make a stunning shower gel or soap) The ad copy for Alter says it is ”A perfume for women, for men, and for women and men at the same time” to which I say Yes and Amen. It smelled like heaven on my husband.

emma watson  vogue italia

Emma Watson for Vogue Italia

Bond-T is “a perfume born in Pisa, during a tour of the chocolate factory of a well-known Italian Maitre Chocolatier”; With notes of cacao, patchouli, vanilla, osmanthus and tobacco, Bond-T is gourmand without being at all foody. It’s as deep and rich as a lover’s caress. I put this one on my husband and spent the rest of the day interrupting him.  Where Alter is heavenly, Bond-T is sinfully good. It is a close call between Bond T and Alter for my "Best of Show"

Karlie Kloss by Patrick Demarchelier in Giambattista Valli for Vogue US

Karlie Kloss by Patrick Demarchelier in Giambattista Valli for Vogue US

I didn’t think I’d care for Vitrum because I don’t like vetiver, but I was quite wrong; apparently I’ve never smelled quality vetiver before. This is the loveliest cool green vetiver, nothing raspy or harsh about it. It’s blended with rose ”to give a touch of softness and black pepper to give power.” On my skin, the rose and pepper take turns; sometimes the soft, sweet rose is more prominent, sometimes the pepper and its feistiness is, but it’s always lovely and I think anyone could wear it. For those of you who love all natural fragrances Vitrum and Vetiver. well your prayers are answered.

Lily Cole in Like a painting editorial, Vogue Italia, February 2005. I

Lily Cole in Like a Painting editorial, Vogue Italia, February 2005. 

Ariel  is described as a green floral poudre and the most feminine fragrance in the  Sammarco collection.  Doctor Sammarco very chivalrously refuses to name his inspiration, but says it’s one of the best he’s ever had. It’s based on the olfactive view of his physical and spiritual idea of woman.  He clearly has superb taste. Ariel’s notes include angelica, tuberose, jasmine, osmanthus, violette and rose, and sandalwood, with little bit of tobacco and davana and a hint of orris concrete. The fragrance is pure elegance, and incredibly luxurious, but still has the very sensual feel that seems to be Dr Sammarco’s signature. It also happens to be dedicated to redheads.  On behalf of myself and redheads everywhere, I thank him sincerely.

Karen  Elson Featured in  Hothouse Fowers Vogue USA 2013

Karen  Elson Featured in  Hothouse Flowers Vogue USA 2013

Dr Sammarco is working on a new fragrance; like any work of art, creating it is taking time. I don’t want to reveal too many details, but I will leave you with this: the perfume is extremely close to the idea and the esprit of a Proustian woman with skin naturally smelling of precious flowers. I know it will be worth the wait!

sammarco perfumes cafleurebon

Sammarco at Esxence 2016

It’s almost impossible to describe what presence these perfumes have. The quality of ingredients is outstanding; the amount of naturals is between 65 and 100 percent, depending on the perfume. Dr. Sammarco is himself Italian and moved to Switzerland in part to avoid IFRA restrictions in making his fragrances, although he still has to abide by them to a certain extent in selling within the EU, but mostly because he loves the country. Fortunately for us who live in the US and Canada, his perfumes are available at Indie Scents, (but we think deserve wider USA distribution because honestly)  and if I don’t find at least one of them under the Christmas tree this year, my husband is probably going to be reminded of why redheads have such a reputation for bad tempers.

DISCLOSURE My review is based on samples sent to me by Dr. Giovanni Sammarco (and my husband’s very positive reaction to them!). Opinions are my own.

Tammy Schuster, Sr. Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen Editor in Chief.  Lots of Paulo Roversi,  Vogue Italia…and redheads. I spent an inordinate amount of time on the art for the reviews because after smelling each perfume in March, I just kept thinking that  this small indie line is haute couture for the nose.

 Dr. Sammarco is as generous as he is talented, and is offering  the following:

-sammarco alter Bond-TVitrium Ariel

A sample set of each of his perfumes for a  (registered reader) worldwide (You must click to register if you have not done so)

 Or 

 A choice of a full bottle to one reader worldwide, with following Customs restrictions; he cannot ship to: Italy, Afghanistan, Crimea, North Korea, Iran, Iraq, African Countries except: Egypt, Algeria, Marocco, Tunisia, South Africa.

To be eligible, please leave a comment telling us which of Dr Sammarco’s fragrances intrigues you the most, where you live and your choiceif you should win. Please like the Sammarco Facebook page and your entry will count twice.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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44 comments

  • You’ve really made me curious about Alter. One can never have too much jasmine. Bond T is interesting too. I’m in the US and I think Alter is the one I’d most like to try.

  • This review got my attention when calling Alter the best Sambac Jasmine both Michelyn and Tammy have smelled in a long while. I adore jasmine most amongst the white florals, I bought a jasmine attar from ASAQ and it sits so beautifully on my skin that I feel showered under a million delicate stars. I am not that familiar with the differences between Grandiflorum and Sambac Jasmine varieties, but no doubt I would love to win a bottle of Alter. I can receive post either in the UK or the Netherlands. Thanks for the wonderful draw!

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Love reading about a new line with a reasonable number (i.e. not 10) of new releases. The unisex jasmine sounds absolutely wonderful as it’s a favorite note of mine when it gets an unconventional treatment. The idea of gorgeous humid jasmine resting on a resinous base is really enticing! I’d love to be entered for a bottle of Alter. I’m in the US.

  • Ariel is the one for me – what’s not to like about a green floral with such beautiful notes like angelica, jasmine and violette to name a few. It helps that it is dedicated to redheads , so totally made just for me! 🙂 A bottle of Ariel would be fantastic and i live in the UK. Thanks for the chance.

  • Julesinrose says:

    I’ve already heard so many good things about this house. Now I am over-anxious to get my nose of them! However, if I were lucky enough to win, a full bottle of Bond-T would be my choice because tobacco and chocolate equals “yes please!!” To me! In the US.

  • Always quite exciting to hear about a new line of fragrances on these pages. I will seek out a sample of the the Alter if possible, yet drawn to the Bond-T. I would like the bottle of Bond-T for a prize (maybe I’ll get interrupted). US

  • Amazing review and introduction to a new fragrance house! The jasmine sounds heavenly and with both Michelyn and Tammy’s approval, it has to be exquisite. If I were to win, Alter would be my choice and Bond-T is a must try. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • MikasMinion says:

    Alter was already on my radar, but knowing that Ariel is dedicated to redheads I really must choose it. This line is getting raves from everyone and I’m anxious to experience them. I’m in the US.

  • Alter sounds incredible – I’m a sucker for anything jasmine related 😉 I live in Canada and would love to win the samples. Thanks!

  • A perfume that got your attention has my attention so Alter has my immediate attention
    The reviews are terrific and I love knowing Ariel was inspired by an ideal of a woman
    The fashion photos are really perfect for Tammy reviews
    I hadn’t heard of Sammarco so thank you for stopping in your tracks
    Canada

  • Elizabeth T says:

    Ariel has my name on it – I love green florals, and I think perfumes that are dedicated or made for one specific person somehow always turn out to be a notch above the rest… it’s like cooking – food tastes better with the special ingredient LOVE. Ariel would be my choice if I happened to win. I’m in the USA. Thank you for the draw!!

  • I would most love to try Bond-T, as the combination of cacao, patchouli and tobacco sounds irresistible. Yum! I live in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • fazalcheema says:

    Alter def. intrigues me the most because it seems to be one of the best Jasmine perfumes from the review. I have been lucky to smell Jasmine Sambac and I know how lovely it smells. My choice will def. be Alter. thanks a lot for the generous draw. I am sure Dr. Sammarco will introduce some other creations as well that explore other flowers such as tuberose. I am in the US.

  • It’s always fun to read about new houses. I’m most intrigued by Ariel, but as an unconditional gourmand lover I’d choose Bond-T if I were to win. I live in Japan.
    Thank you for this opportunity.

  • After reading the opening of the article telling me the perfumer has a vanity full of jasmine fragrances and both Michelyn and Darryl spoke so highly of Alter, that is the one that interests me the most. Then Tammy got some and both she and her husband loved it also. If I win I’d like a bottle of the Alter. 🙂 USA

  • I would love to try Bond-T, for the combination of notes like cacao, patchouli, vanilla, osmathus and tobacco sound too good to resist.
    In case I win Bond-T would be my choice.
    I have liked the Facebook page of Sammarco.
    I am a registered reader living in EU, Greece. Thank you the generous draw.

  • I love vetiver and rose, so Vitrum sounds wonderful. I would love to win a bottle of Vitrum. I am in the US, thank you!

  • I am the biggest vetiver fan, so I would love to have Vitrium in my collection; I have heard so many positive reviews about it. So my choice would be Vitrium. I’m in the US.

  • Lellabelle says:

    I’ve only recently had the Sammarco perfumes on my radar, but am aching to try these. They seem to have been quite the hit at Esxence! Rave reviews from reviewers I trust :).
    The Vogue Italia pictures are simply gorgeous and your time sourcing them was well spent, Michelyn :). Thanks for sharing.
    I want all of these, but the one that is calling to me the loudest would have to be Alter. I’m a hopeless jasmineophile.
    Thanks for the generous draw. My choice would be Alter, and I’m in Canada. Many congratulations to Dr Sammarco for entrancing some very discerning individuals at Esxence; I hope soon to be similarly smitten 😉

  • Heard only good things about Dr. Sammarco, but never had the opportunity to test his fragrances. As a gourmand scents fan, I’m very curious about his take on chocolate! Cacao, patchouli, vanilla, tobacco – this mix sounds lovely.

    So, “Bond-T” would be my choice, if…

    I have already liked the Facebook page of Sammarco.
    I am a registered reader living in France.

  • I have to say, I’m completely intrigued by them all…the unisexiness of Alter, the Rose notes of Vitrum, and the romance of Ariel…

    I think if I were to choose one, though, I’d be greedy and choose Alter for myself!

    I’m in the UK, and a fan of Dr. Sammarco’s Facebook page already 🙂

  • pursejunkie says:

    Normally, I would go with the sample set, but in this case Bond-T sounds just too fabulous. I’m in the US.

  • Very nice review, and the pictures are so interesting also. I have liked Sammarco Facebook page. Bond-T sounds the most interesting to me, because of sweetness and the cacao, and that would be my winning choice too. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Wow! Apparently, I feel a lttle bit the same-I always thought, Rose is my favourite ingriedient in perfumes but when I look through my collection it is Jasmine that appears more often o the ingredients list. The perfumes of Dr. Sammarco are totally new to me but as I know from other perfumes like my beloved Andy Tauer YS UZAC or Vero.profumo Switzerland has a vivid perfumer scene.

    Thank you very much for the generous draw!

    I would like to have a bottle of Alter.

    I live in the EU, Austria (so we are neighbours ;-))

    Best regards

  • I love anything jasmine, but I’ve also been looking for a vetiver that doesn’t smell terrible on me. Alter is the one calling my name, and I live in the USA.

  • These fragrances sound truly amazing. It’s so difficult to choose just one to try, but I think I’d love to try Alter. Bond-T is also right up there, but Alter sounds truly mesmerizing. I have liked the Sammarco FB page as well. Thanks for this amazing draw, I’m in the US.

  • Whattheflowers says:

    You feel the respect this brand offers to nature’s quality ingredients. Jasmine has always amazed me. It can be as powerful and confident and sensual and tender at the same time. especially put on men , it creates a new dimension for itself. So, Alter intrigues me a lot. I would love to try Bond-T though, there is something about the mix of osmanthus that draws me to it. How it can be a shy discreet floral but yet so luscious and exotic. Bond-T is definitely the fragrance I would love to try. I live in Montreal, Canada. Thank you !!

  • I would choose Ariel! I am a redhead (well a dyed one …. but still…). 2 other fragrances were very tempting too, but Ariel sounds lovely with awesome flowers and a darker base. Would love to try it. Thanks for thsi beautiful draw. I live in the Netherlands.

  • Tobacco and chocolate…yes,please! Bond-T sounds like it’s right up my alley.
    Thank you for the draw! USA
    liked facebook page

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Alter is very intriguing, I am always hunting after the perfect jasmine smell that permeates warm humid summer nights. I am in VA, U.S.A., and I would choose a full bottle of Alter.

  • The 2 fragances which intrigues me the most are Ariel and Alter and if I had to choose I would like Ariel because the notes and the inspiration of a red-haired woman is more appealing to me .
    I’m in EU, thanks.

  • Diana Devlin says:

    I honestly couldn’t pick a favorite out of the 4. Each one has notes in it that immediately grab my attention. Ariel sounds so beautiful and feminine with the green floral notes. Vitrum is another that I know I’d enjoy because I love vetiver. One of my favorite scents with vetiver is Gendarme V. Bond-T is right up my alley when it comes to gourmands with patchouli, vanilla, tobacco and most especially cacao. And jasmine-based perfumes are some of my most cherished, so I know I’d love Alter. While I’d love to own a full bottle of any 4 of these fragrances, I’d probably appreciate it more if I won the sampler set so I can experience and enjoy each of them.
    I live in the U.S.

  • What an enjoyable four-in-one review. I always love to hear about new and exciting perfumers, and it definitely sounds like Dr. Sammarco is quite a talent.

    Although I am drawn to the Vitrum because I love pepper, especially when contrasted with a softer herbal or wood note, I think I have joined the group of readers who are now fascinated by this alluring jasmine sambac. If I were to win the draw, I would choose Alter.

    I am in the US.

  • There is a lot of good buzz about this House, so Bond-T has been on my radar, as has the beautiful Alter. Winning either one of these would be a blessing.

    I live in the U.S.

  • These all sound wonderful to try! I love vanilla and chocolate in perfumes and my choice would be Bond -T.
    Thanks for the interesting review and the draw!
    I live in the U.S.

  • I’d love to try both Ariel and Alter, as they both sound like beautiful florals. But alas, I’m not a redhead therefore if I was to win I’d choose Alter. Jasmine for blondes perhaps? Lol. Thank you for the chance, I’m in the US.

  • These all sound sublime! Quality of ingredients is what I look for most in perfume, so I want to try them all! I’m so happy to hear they’re distributed in Canada. live in Canada and would love to win the sample set.

  • I would love to try Bond-T ! for cacao, patchouli, vanilla, tobacco notes. In case I win Bond-T would be my choice.
    I have liked the Facebook page of Sammarco.
    I am a registered reader living in EU. thank you

  • What a great read. I have not heard of this house before, but I do like the sound of the fragrances. My choice should I win would be Alter. Thanks for the draw and I’m in Canada.

  • I absolutely love the note of jasmine, so I was very happy reading this! Alter is a fragrance that I have to try in the future, maybe soon if I win this draw haha.

    But yes Alter is my choice.

    I’m a Canadian reader.