Thameen London Florentine Diamond by Olya Bar
I’ve always loved a good jewel story, and the saga of the famous Florentine Diamond is one that has captivated the world with its aura of intrigue and speculation. For over a century, this legendary 137-carat yellow gem was presumed lost. Perhaps stolen or recut, fueling endless theories. But last year, the truth emerged: it had been safely tucked away in a Canadian bank vault, honoring the late Empress Zita’s wish for secrecy until 100 years after her husband Charles I’s death in 1922. With rumors of an upcoming public display, I eagerly await its radiant return, hoping it avoids any modern heists like the recent Louvre incident.
Florentine Diamond via Wikipedia.
The nine-sided, 137.27-carat double rose-cut diamond carved with 126 facets traces its origins to India’s legendary Golconda region, long regarded as the birthplace of the world’s most coveted stones. By the mid-17th century, it belonged to Duke Ferdinando II de’ Medici before passing into the hands of the Habsburg dynasty, where it became an emblem of imperial prestige. In 1745, the jewel crowned Francis Stephen of Lorraine, husband to Empress Maria Theresa. After the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the end of World War I, Emperor Charles I and his family fled Vienna to Switzerland, sending their jewels ahead for safekeeping. The Florentine, famously linked to Charles the Bold’s demise at the 1477 Battle of Nancy, appeared to vanish. In reality, Empress Zita transported it to Quebec in a modest cardboard suitcase during her exile with her eight children. She confided its location only to sons Robert and Rodolphe, mandating a century of silence. This secret passed through generations until descendant Karl von Habsburg-Lothringen recently revealed it, dispelling myths of theft or alteration.
Thameen London Florentine Diamond via the brand.
Now, with the diamond’s story illuminated, let’s delve into its modern olfactory homage: Thameen London Florentine Diamond fragrance is a masterful creation by perfumer Sophie Labbé. From the first spritz, Florentine Diamond opens with a luminous burst of mandarin which adds the perfect shine to the tuberose, that narcotic white floral note that commands attention like the diamond’s multifaceted sparkle. This intoxicating and hypnotic flower was chosen by Sophie Labbe because of its Indian origins, same as the diamond itself, drawing you in with its creamy, slightly green freshness that evokes moonlit gardens under a starry sky, pure, radiant, and opulent. Interwoven are decadent cocoa undertones, adding a velvety depth that tempers the tuberose’s intensity, creating a gourmand whisper of dark chocolate bitterness without overwhelming sweetness. This duo sets a perfect stage, balancing floral elegance with indulgent warmth. The fragrance has a whopping 35% concentration.
As the heart unfolds, rich woody notes emerge, grounding the composition with an earthy sophistication that mirrors the diamond’s storied resilience. The essence of sugarcane infuses a subtle, addictive sweetness. Raw, caramelized cane juice that lingers on the palate, evoking tropical fields kissed by the sun. It’s this gourmand charm that makes the fragrance so moreish, pulling you deeper into its layers with each inhale, like uncovering hidden facets of a precious stone. At the base, barley adds a hay and honey facet letting the oud take center stage: resinous, opulent, and powerfully woody, yet remarkably clean and free of any animalic or smoky “dirtiness.” It’s a refined oud that exudes luxury, amplified by the warm, comforting embrace of vanilla. This vanilla isn’t cloying but rather smooth and amber-like, wrapping the entire scent in a lingering, sensual trail that evokes aged velvet or sun-warmed skin. The drydown is mesmerizing, with the oud-vanilla accord providing a resinous glow that persists for hours, leaving a trail of quiet opulence.
Thameen London Florentine Diamond Collage by Olya Bar
What I also loved about Florentine Diamond is that for me there is a subtle nod to Bravi, hidden somewhere in the heart, my absolute favorite from Thameen, perhaps an homage to the visionary Christopher Chong, whose bold, artistic direction I’ve admired for years, and who navigated the house of Thameen London through the fragrance world for the last few years. This hidden layer adds a personal touch, blending familiarity with innovation. Overall, the fragrance is a sensory journey: it starts bright and floral, evolves into a woody-gourmand heart, and settles into a warm, resinous base that feels both timeless and contemporary.
Thameen London Florentine Diamond ensnares your senses in luminous beauty, much like the diamond itself, patiently waiting to dazzle once more. They say diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but perfume can easily rival that title.
Notes: Mandarin, Cocoa, Tuberose, Sugar Cane, Barley, Vanilla, Oak Chips, Oud.
The bottle was kindly gifted by Twisted Lily but opinions are always my own. I am the Head of Marketing and Communications for the company.
Olya Bar, Editor.
Available at Twistedlily.com
Please read Olya Bar’s review of Thameen London Blue Heart here. Steven Gavrielatos’ video of Carved Oud here
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