
Rania J Veliahtte
Outside of the oud boom and the colossal mainstream surge of the last decade, there have always been artisanal brands that display a true understanding of the labyrinthine nature of agarwood. For these people ‘oud’ is not just a buzzword to be used as a hook for their next flanker release; it’s a complex, incredibly varied ingredient whose distillation needs to be studied and worked with, over and over again, to try and understand the scope of the material properly.
By its nature – natural oud is a resin that the agar tree produces to fight infection – oud smells overtly complex, heavy with a darkly balsamic and often impenetrable woody aroma. Sometimes, depending on where it’s sourced and how it’s processed, it has wild, less desirable facets and for a large part of the population those blue cheese aspects, barnyard feels and fecal tones can be quite harsh. But Rania Jouaneh has always stood out as one of those perfumers whose brand revels in experimenting with these outsider materials and artisanal margins. Her latest, Rania J Veliahtte, might prove to be one of the easiest ‘proper oud’ perfumes to wear and enjoy.

Rania Jouaneh, photo courtesy of the brand
Born the granddaughter of a spice merchant in Jordan, Jouaneh moved to France via Morocco and by her own admission is besotted with natural materials. Her fragrances have to date explored richness and heft whilst tackling completely different olfactive directions. Ambre Loup and T. Habanero are bold, uncompromising takes on amber and tobacco and her Rose Ishtar is just floral prettiness distilled. Her Lavande 44 is an astonishingly animalic take on the aroma of the bushes of the ornate purple flower and Musc Moscus is all sweet, green and pervasive whilst paying considerable dues to the tonalities of traditional deer musk.
As challenging as some of these concepts listed above might seem, Rania J Veliahtte makes the presentation of a powerful, breathy and buttery oud feel refreshingly simple. Using a palette of traditionally Western ingredients – you’d probably be right to read the given note list of lemon, bergamot, lavender, patchouli, cedarwood and incense and think you might be on for a variant of any fresh French perfume, ever – she layers a handful of ‘conventional’ accords but the oud that’s at the heart of the fragrance just combines all together and dominates the sillage wonderfully.

Veliahtte is lemons, lavender and [oud] wood, but not as you’d expect…
The big lemon top note and the oud’s smoky nuances immediately stand out as the perfume’s most potent part and this remains true throughout the wear with the lemon slowly morphing into lavender’s greenery and the assembled base materials cushioning any jagged edges of the raw oud. Whether it’s actually some combination of guaiac wood, patchouli and incense or part of the scent profile of the oud , the pervasive smoked wood atop balmy resins is the heart of Rania J Veliahtte and it’s beat perfect. There’s no sense of a nagging top line (isobutyl quinoline) or any charred meat/bacon note (guaiacol) to the smoke; it just feels wholly nature-made and its presentation is exemplary of the proper understanding a perfumer needs to be able to present such a carefully chosen core ingredient.

Jouaneh writes that her newest perfume might take its name from the Turkish word ‘Veliaht’, meaning Crown Prince but it’s not inspired by royalty or lineage or family heritage. She means it more as “a silent force that evokes the courage that inspires one to move forward, to rise [and] to become fully oneself.” It’s a validation of both her talent with a pipette and her concept that the composition feels empowered and uplifting given that the materials she’s used bear such gravitas and heavy molecular weight
– Oli Marlow, Senior Editor
Notes: Bergamot, Sweet Orange, Lemon, Lavender, Beeswax, Myrrh, Cedarwood, Incense, Cinnamon, Guaiac Wood, Oud, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk
Disclaimer: A travel size bottle of Veliahtte was sent by the brand for review.
Please read more in Oli’s Esxence report
All images used courtesy of the brand unless otherwise noted.

Thanks to the generosity of Rania J we have 10 ml of Veliahtte to one registered reader in the US AND one registered reader in the UK EU/ only. There are two winners. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Oli’s review and where you live. Draw closes 7/13/2026
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