First row(left) Whitney Swales, Neil Morris, bottom row (left) Akuura Kulak, Anjali Vandermark create bespoke perfumes
In Part 1 in our series back in 2015 we explored the idea of bespoke perfumery with five independent perfumers. I thought it was time to revisit the topic especially in light of all the chatter about dupes, clones and hyped “viral” perfumes touted on Instagram and TikTok, as well as dedicated retail stores where you can modify a perfume created in-house by well-known perfumers from prominent Flavor and Fragrance houses.
I invited Akuura Kulak of Aroma Sanctum Perfumes, Neil Morris of Neil Morris Fragrances and Whitney Swales of Wit & West who create bespoke perfumes for individual clients. Neil Morris of Neil Morris Fragrances composes mostly for individuals but also for boutiques. Anjali Vandemark of Anjali Perfumes works with galleries, brands and individuals to participate.-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Collage of Akuura Kulak of Aroma Sanctum photos courtesy of Akuura
Why and when did you start to create bespoke perfumes?
Akuura Kulak: When I opened my retail store in Salem MA in 1996, I knew I wanted to make bespoke perfumes for my clients, as well as sell my basic line of perfumes. So many people have chemical sensitivities, like I do, and have difficulty finding a fragrance. Plus, I love the whole creative process of designing and making something unique that they will appreciate and enjoy! I am a self-taught perfumer and aromatherapist, making all my perfumes by hand, with a large percentage of natural essential oils.
Whitney Swales: I started the Wit & West Bespoke Experience process in 2019, prior to launching Wit & West in 2021.
Neil Morris: I started creating bespoke perfumes in 2007. I loved the idea of putting a person’s scented memories into a bottle for the to conjure like a genie! People reach out on my website here
Anjali Vandemark: I am a self-taught perfumer and spent several years studying on my own before launching my brand in 2021. After two years of scaling up my operations and successfully launching several perfumes. While creating perfumes for my line is a solitary activity, bespoke work, while challenging, is also rewarding since I get to exchange ideas with my clients. Seeing their project come to life is very satisfying.
Collage of Neil Morris (photos courtesy of Neil)
How does the process begin?
Neil Morris: The process begins with an interview over the phone. I call it “The Listening Before The Fragrance.
Akuura Kulak: Questions- lots of questions! I first ask them what sort of perfumes/smells they enjoy- if they have no idea, I ask them what they hate! and we go from there. I try to ascertain what fragrance family they resonate with the most, and work within that area. Then I make them 3 mods to try out, and mail them. I ask for a lot of feedback after they try them- what did they like/dislike about each one, how long it lasted on the skin etc.
Anjali Vandermark: It always begins with a conversation about what my clients want to achieve with the project and exploring their feelings about scent in their life.
Whitney Swales: Initially, the process started as a way for me to create perfumes for family and friends, and get an idea of what styles of fragrances might be a good fit for the Wit & West line.
Do you meet with the client virtually or in person?
Whitney Swales: I meet with Bespoke clients virtually. However, if they are local to the Denver, CO area, I will meet with them in person upon request.
Neil Morris- Nowadays mostly virtually.
Anjali Vandemark: Both, but virtual discussions are practical when clients are in a different city than where I live. I have a phone call, then share a document where I write the brief as I interpret it from our discussion. I make a collage of images based on it to create a mood board. I send them materials and accords that I’ve selected, and once they give me feedback on what they like, I start in that direction.
Akuura Kulak: I am online/mail order only, and it is a lot more challenging to work long distance, mailing samples back and forth.
Wit & West Bespoke Experience
Did they want something to wear every day or only for special occasions?
Whitney Swales: Some of my clients have been gifted the Bespoke Experience for birthdays/anniversaries, and some have just been interested in creating something that is unique and personal to them.
Akuura Kulak: I’ve made mostly custom fragrances for everyday wear, but quite a few for wedding days and anniversaries. I tell them that they will always have pleasant memories attached to perfumes they wore for momentous occasions.
Neil Morris: It varies. Some people want a scent to wear on a daily basis and others use it for special occasions. But mostly I would say for daily use.
Anjali Vandemark: It varies. Some clients have a research project on scent. Other times it’s an art installation with scent incorporated into it. Commercial perfume projects require a perfume ready for sale, while other times it’s for a special occasion such as a graduation or a wedding anniversary, with only a few bottles for personal use.
Did you see an increase in demand during or after the pandemic?
Akuura Kulak: Yes, there was a huge surge during the pandemic year. Due to local state regulations in MA my retail store was closed for the first 6 months of 2020, and I had to focus on building my online business more. People were panic-ordering online! And then when we were allowed to reopen, the retail store was insanely busy for the last season of the year. I think many were afraid that small businesses like mine would go under, and were stocking up on their beloved products.
Anjali Vandemark: The pandemic has had a big impact on awareness and discussion of scent, since one of the side effects of infection was anosmia. Scent is a vital part of our daily experience; from the moment we brush our teeth to the moment we lie down and smell the bedsheet. Not being able to smell impacts quality of life significantly. When movement was restricted, and proximity to others was limited, perfumes and scents became a way for people to relive memories of places and people and acted as a comforting presence.
Do some of the clients ask for specific ingredients? Do they share scent memories or fragrances worn by loved ones as well as what they currently own?
Neil Morris: In my questionnaire I ask them about specific scents. They can rate them 1 -10, with 10 being “I love it!” to 1 meaning “Not for me.” If they tell me they love flowers I ask them, if they were walking through a beautiful garden, which flowers would you cut to bring home?
Whitney Swales: As a part of the process, I have clients complete a questionnaire, which includes everything from preferred ingredients and olfactory family to existing fragrances they enjoy to what kind of feeling or mood they are looking for.
Anjali Vandermark: Almost always, clients have very specific ideas about which notes they dislike and usually have a general idea of what they want in the fragrance: “I want a floral but not overtly sweet perfume,” or “I dislike citrus notes,” or “I like X brand’s perfumes.” They always mention which fond memories are associated with which perfumes from their childhood or adolescent years.
Akuura Kulak: Some are very specific about what ingredients they love; others worked with memories of perfumes they wore in the past. I would always try to make them something they like even better. Others have no clue about ingredients, perfume vocabulary etc., and just describe the feel/vibe of their ideal fragrance, that is a lot harder to work with.
Are the formulas proprietary to them?
Neil Morris: I own all formulas. But with the understanding that I will sell the bottle only to them unless they specify selling it to someone else
Akuura Kulak: Yes- I keep all the formulas on file for clients to reorder. Sometimes they are willing to share their perfume with a friend or family member, and will give me permission to do so.
Anjali Vandemark: Unless it is specified and paid for in the contract, I retain the formulas and the copyright.
Whitney Swales All Wit & West Bespoke Perfumes are proprietary to the individual who they are created for.
How many mods does it usually take before the fragrance is finished?
Neil Morris: I create 3 samples to mail to them. They can choose one. If none are just right, I ask them to tell me which one of the three is closest to what they were looking for. I then work that formula into three new versions and they have to choose from one of the final three.
Anjali Vandemark: It varies by client, but on average it takes around 5-6 modifications before we arrive at the final formula. The first mod is the hardest, since it’s based on our initial conversation and material study. The perfume doesn’t necessarily translate directly to the initial listed notes, since the final work needs to be adjusted for projection, longevity, etc. Sometimes the formula works immediately, and we finish it in a round or two.
Akuura Kulak: Depending on the complexity of the fragrance, anywhere from 4- 10 usually.
Whitney Swales: For the Wit & West Bespoke Experience, I do 3 rounds of revisions for a total of 8-10 mods shared with the client. For the first two rounds, I provide ~3 versions of the perfume, and for the last round, it is usually 2 versions so they can pick the one they like best. Behind the scenes, I may do more mods until I find version I want to share with the client.
Do you create other products
Akuura Kulak: Yes, I can make the client’s fragrance into my natural line of body products- lotions, bath products etc. if they wish.
Anjali Vandemark: All my scents are alcohol based, but they might use a different delivery mechanism, for example if it’s a scent art installation
Have you created bespoke perfumes for organizations as well as individuals?
Anjali Vandemark: Yes, I created Starlight Sesame for Scent Trunk, and scents for art galleries, a non-profit institution and also individuals.
Are the bespoke fragrances given a name?
Neil Morris: Yes, all are named. When I create for a store or boutique, we always select a name. When I create for individuals, we usually put their name on it.
Anjali Vandermark: I always come up with a name first. Sometimes it’s a name given by the client. A name creates associations of color, texture, and memory. This anchors me as I create a brief and take the project forward. Even when the name isn’t finalized by the client, I give specific names to the mods to evoke the notes or direction of that mod.
Whitney Swales: I give clients the option to select a name. Otherwise, if they don’t have a preference, I will name it the mod number of the perfume (i.e., “No. 10”). A perfume that I created for a client’s wedding day was named the date of the wedding, which I loved!
Akuura Kulak: If the client chooses to, yes, they can name it. Otherwise, I just give it their name.
Do you use different labels or packaging?
Neil Morris: I use different labels for wholesale products and a special label for bespoke perfumes for individuals.
Whitney Swales: Originally, I had different packaging that said “Bespoke” on the box. In the last two years I switched over to universal packaging to reduce SKU count so now the packaging aligns with all Wit & West packing (except the label, which has the unique name of the perfume).
Anjali Vandemark: Yes. Bespoke commissions get their own presentation, separate from my retail line.
Akuura Kulak: No. Most of my perfumes are sold as concentrated perfume oils, in very plain small vials. I can make a spray eau de parfum if they prefer.
What percentage are repeat clients?
Whitney Swales: Because repeat clients can order their Bespoke Perfume for the same price as our Signature Collection, I often have most clients reordering the perfume I’ve already created for them.
Neil Morris: I usually hear from most of them eventually. I actually had a client contact me who came to see me in 2008!!! She was thrilled that I still had her formulas. She actually had two bespoke fragrances made
Akuura Kulak: I’d say about 50% of the customers I have made bespoke perfumes for over the last 30 years. Those are very loyal and consistent, and order regularly- their loved ones also order for them for gifts. The others, that visited my retail shop during the crazy October season, had simple custom perfumes made on the spot by my assistants, probably just as a unique a tourist experience. But I still keep their formulas on file as well, some do contact me after many years, to reorder.
Anjali Vandermark: I’m a few years into bespoke projects, and so far, my clients have all been new and diverse.
How does the price compare to your own brand?
Neil Morris: I charge much more for a bespoke perfume. It’s a more expensive undertaking and takes time. I charge for my time.
Akuura Kulak: I’d say roughly three times the price of my readymade line perfumes, just because of the time and labor involved, also taking into consideration the price of ingredients they may want to use.
Anjali Vandermark: My bespoke service is priced much higher than my retail line, since it incorporates hours of discussion, custom material sourcing, packaging (if done by me), and the number of iterations involved.
Whitney Swales: The Bespoke Experience is $850. The process includes 3 phases with edits to the formulation based on client feedback. Once selected, the final custom perfume sent to the client includes (2) 15ml bottles and one (1) 50ml bottle. For repeat clients, a new batch of their Bespoke Perfume is the same price as our Signature Collection; $165 for a 50ml bottle, and $65 for a 15ml bottle.
If you would like your own bespoke perfume contact: witandwest.com neilmorrisfragrances.com aromasanctum.com anjaliperfumes.com
What would be your dream bespoke perfume?
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