Paris Perfume Week 2026: Best of Show (Part 1)+ Parfums Dusita Giveaway

Paris Perfume Week 2026

 Paris Perfume Week 2026 exterior / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

Paris Perfume Week 2026 took place from April 9th to 11th in its new location at the Palais Brongniart. The setting itself was already a highlight – beautiful, inspiring, and filled with light, giving the entire event a sense of importance and elevation that felt new compared to previous editions.

With over 160 brands from all over the world – France, Italy, the UK, South Korea, Hong Kong, Lithuania, and beyond – the event reached a completely different scale this year. Compared to last year, which felt small and intimate, this edition seemed to have truly exploded. Even though the space was significantly larger, it still could barely accommodate all the visitors. At peak hours, moving through the aisles became difficult, and before the opening, people were already queuing outside in the street.

It clearly showed one thing: people love niche perfumery, and they are hungry for new discoveries. This applies equally to professionals, media, and perfume lovers.

For me, the event was a delicious experience. Even after more than a decade immersed in niche perfumery, many brands were completely new to me. Many of them are relatively young or just launched this year, bringing fresh energy and new perspectives into the industry.

Beyond the main event, Paris Perfume Week 2026 extended throughout the city. Numerous events, talks, and scented experiences were taking place both on-site and off-site, making it impossible to stay in one place.

Parfums Dusita Light of Bangkok

Parfums Dusita Workshop / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

My first stop was at the boutique of Parfums Dusita, where the lovely Pissara Umavijani held a small workshop. She introduced several raw materials she is working with and the perfumes in which they are used. The boutique itself is very inviting and meeting her always feels like meeting an old friend. She has a natural warmth and openness, and she is endlessly inspiring – not only as a perfumer but also as a painter, sharing her latest drawings in the boutique. I was particularly impressed by her latest perfume, Light of Bangkok, created exclusively for the hotel Mandarin Oriental Bangkok to celebrate its 150th anniversary. The fragrance is limited and available only through Dusita’s website or in store, but it is so beautifully executed that it deserves attention. Built around lemongrass – a material that is notoriously difficult to handle – Pissara managed to avoid any overly culinary associations. Instead, the scent feels bright, luminous, and fresh, with a refined elegance. @parfumsdusita

Dusita Light of Bangkok perfume 2026

Dusita Light of Bangkok / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

My next stop was the brand-new boutique of Maison Spoturno, located at the stunning Galerie Vivienne. This is not an ordinary perfume boutique. Starting from the poetic location and extending to every detail within the space, everything feels intentional. Every design element, every color, every artwork carries a story and reflects the vision of founder Véronique Spoturno.

Spoturno boutique in Paris

Spoturno boutique / Photo credit: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

And it is not without reason – Spoturno is not just another brand. It carries the heritage of French perfumery as imagined by her great-grandfather, François Spoturno of Coty. The perfumes aim to bridge tradition with modernity. The creation of the first collection of five fragrances was entrusted to Christopher Sheldrake, the nose behind many iconic perfumes, including my all-time favorite Coromandel from Chanel. It was a true privilege to hear him speak about his process working with historical formula books while never imposing limits on his own creativity.

Veronique Spoturno, Kristina Kybartaite-Damule, Christopher Sheldrake

Véronique Spoturno, Kristina Kybartaite-Damule, Christopher Sheldrake / Image from personal archive

Every fragrance impressed me, but Spoturno 1921 resonated deeply. It has everything I personally love about vintage perfumery – florals and a rich resinous base – yet none of the elements I tend to find challenging. The animalic components have been replaced with modern molecules, allowing the original formula to shine with clarity and elegance. @maison.spoturno @veronique.spoturno @christopher.sheldrake

Luc Gabriel of the Different Company

Luc Gabriel and Kristina Kybartaite-Damule / Photo from personal archive

Back at the Palais Brongniart, one of the launches I was most curious about was the new extrait collection from The Different Company. The brand surprised not only with a refreshed design and more youthful aesthetic, but especially with the fragrances themselves.

These are not ordinary extraits – each composition has a concentration of 50% and above. As founder Luc Gabriel explained, many high-concentration perfumes today tend to rely on similar overpowering bases. His goal was to create something different. The result is a collection that is as bold as its concentration. Crazy Tubereuse is dark and intensely sensual, while Gothic Incense feels elegant and modern. Maddy and Salty Kiss are unapologetically gourmand – one evokes a madeleine, the other a biscuit with salted caramel. Smelling them, I could almost taste the desserts – dangerous, but perfect when you want sweetness without calories. My favorite, however, was Gin-Seng, a modern aromatic interpretation inspired by ancestral Chinese medicine. Slightly exotic and unexpected, it stood apart from the rest. @thedifferentcompany

Cherigan Shanghai Le Soir

Cherigan Shanghai Le Soir / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

At Cherigan, I tried the new Shanghai Le Soir(Maxime Exler), a sweet and fruity fragrance with blackcurrant, lychee, and pink pepper in the opening, followed by a floral heart of rose, violet, and iris, and a musky woody base. It is mouthwatering and generous, ideal for those who enjoy lush fruity compositions. @cheriganparis

Tobba - Jasper Li and Adrian Yu

Tobba – Jasper Li and Adrian Yu / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

Hong Kong-based Tobba presented Asura, a fragrance that resists easy classification. It is the first black bottle in their collection, and the brand deliberately avoids disclosing a traditional note structure, leaving space for personal interpretation. To me, it revealed a soft hazelnut-like nuance – not clearly gourmand, but gently suggestive – combined with a creamy, powdery texture and a subtle floral facet, possibly tuberose. As co-founder Adrian Yu explained, their process starts with a concept rather than an ingredient. Named after a mythological figure associated with both beauty and force, Asura is built around contrast, and that duality is present throughout its evolution. @tobbaparfums

Tonka Kumaru Atelier Materi

Photo Oli Marlow

Atelier Materi introduced the new Tonka Kumaru, created by Céline Perdriel. Built around a rich gourmand structure, it balances bitter almond, roasted tonka bean, and vanilla with impressive precision. The sweetness is undeniable, yet it never feels heavy or cloying – rather, it unfolds as something radiant, textured, and quietly sensual. There’s a subtle contrast between the toasted, almost nutty depth of the tonka and the smoother, enveloping softness of vanilla, giving the composition both warmth and dimension. What makes it even more interesting is its inspiration: the iconic Cléopâtre glue from childhood, a small but deeply familiar object for generations of French schoolchildren. That slightly mischievous temptation to taste it translates here into a fragrance that feels nostalgic without becoming literal. @ateliermateri @celine.perdriel.perfumer

 Franck Salzwedel of Elisire perfumes

Kristina Kybartaite-Damule and Franck Salzwedel / Image from personal archive

I then had the pleasure of meeting Franck Salzwedel, founder of Élisire, who introduced me to his vision of desire translated into scent. Franck explained that his starting point was rooted in classic perfumery, but with the intention to push beyond it, exploring something more mysterious, more instinctive, and at times even slightly avant-garde. There is a deliberate tension in his approach – between structure and abstraction, familiarity and experimentation – which gives the fragrances a distinctive identity

Elisire Perfumes

Élisire / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

He guided me through some of the key creations, including Desired (and Érose, as well as latest Aliksir and In Fabula by Berenice Watteau, each expressing a different interpretation of attraction, intimacy, or fantasy. Two additional bottles stood alongside the presentation – new creations that are not yet officially released. While I can’t share more details at the moment, I can give a hint that what is coming next is definitely worth waiting for. @elisire_parfums

Angelos Creations Olfactives Pothos

Angelos Créations Olfactives Pothos / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

From Greece, Angelos Créations Olfactives presented Pothos, a name that translates to “lust.” While it is described by its creator Angelos Balamis as a honeysuckle soliflore, the reality feels far more complex and layered than that definition suggest. On skin, the fragrance unfolds with a richness that goes beyond a single floral note. The honeysuckle is certainly there – luminous, slightly nectar-like – but it is surrounded by subtle nuances that give it depth and movement. There is a sense of warmth, a gentle sweetness, and a textured quality that keeps evolving rather than settling into something linear. I was clearly not the only one drawn to it – the tester bottle was almost empty by the time I arrived at Angelos’ stand, which says everything about how well it resonated with visitors. @angelos_creations_olfactives @angel_bal

FUMparFUM Tokyo Songs

FUMparFUM Tokyo Songs / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

Lithuanian FUMparFUM expanded its Alchemist Charlatan collection with Tokyo Songs, continuing its Japanese-inspired narrative following last year’s Touching Hinoki. Positioned within their more conceptual and avant-garde line, the fragrance explores a modern, almost urban interpretation of Japan – less about tradition in a literal sense, and more about atmosphere and impression. Featuring notes such as ume (fermented plum) and yuzu, Tokyo Songs unfolds as clean and delicate, yet not simplistic. There is a subtle interplay between freshness and softness, where the citrusy brightness of yuzu is gently rounded by the slightly tangy nuance of Ume. The composition feels airy and refined, with a quiet elegance that doesn’t try to dominate but instead lingers close to the skin. .@fumparfum

Kristina Kybartaite-Damule and Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Creations

Kristina Kybartaite-Damule and Neela Vermeire / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

I could never skip visiting Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Creations. Meeting Neela herself is always a highlight of any event. There is something deeply engaging in the way she speaks about perfume – every creation carries a sense of history, culture, and heritage, and you can feel that nothing is accidental in her work

Neela Vermeire Creations Perfumes

Neela Vermeire Creations perfumes/ Photo credit: Darius Damulis

Just a few months ago, she opened her first flagship boutique in Paris, at 83 Boulevard Malesherbes, a space that finally gives her universe a permanent home in the city. If anything, it feels like a natural extension of her brand – refined, thoughtful, and deeply rooted in storytelling. For those who missed Paris Perfume Week 2026, it’s the perfect place to truly immerse themselves in her collection at a slower pace. Although she didn’t present a new launch in 2026, Eshal, launched last year continues to attract well-deserved attention. For me, revisiting the Fragments collection felt also rewarding. While I already owned Purpureum – a favorite of my husband – I found myself completely captivated by Thyina. Dark, resinous, and gently infused with a subtle coffee nuance, it feels enveloping and deeply comforting, yet incredibly refined in its construction. @neelavermeirecreations

Thomas De Monaco Parfums Luisant Haze

Thomas De Monaco Parfums Luisant Haze / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

At Thomas De Monaco Parfums, a new fragrance from the Gold Collection was introduced: Luisant Haze. Described as a neo-gourmand, it takes the familiar language of sweetness and completely redefines it through a lighter, more contemporary lens.

With notes of wild strawberry and cotton candy, it could easily have drifted into something overly edible or nostalgic in a literal sense – but instead, it does the opposite. The sweetness is there, but it is diffused, almost weightless, like sugar suspended in air rather than anchored in density. The result is something bright, airy, and unexpectedly radiant, with a kind of effortless luminosity that keeps it from ever becoming cloying. A soft, sweetened tuberose runs through the composition, adding a floral dimension that is crucial to its balance. Rather than turning creamy or carnal, the tuberose remains airy and slightly fruity. Luisant Haze, crafted by perfumer Karine Chevallier, feels joyful in a very natural, unforced way. There is a sense of optimism in the way it unfolds – an invitation to stay present, to enjoy the moment without looking behind or projecting too far ahead. It doesn’t try to impress through intensity; instead, it wins through clarity, balance, and emotional ease. I already know this is going to be one of my summer staples. @thomasdemonaco @thomasdemonacoparfums

Voyages Imaginaires Comme Un Gant

Voyages Imaginaires Comme Un Gant/ Photo credit: Darius Damulis

Discovering Voyages Imaginaires made me feel like I had been living under a stone. It was my first time trying the brand, and I genuinely don’t know how it escaped my radar before. Created by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal, the perfumes are composed entirely from natural ingredients – yet they completely defy the common perception that natural perfumery lacks depth, projection, or complexity. What struck me immediately is how expressive and nuanced the compositions are. There is nothing flat or predictable about them. Instead, they feel alive, evolving on the skin with a kind of quiet sophistication that doesn’t rely on volume or obvious effects.

I genuinely enjoyed the entire collection, but Comme un Gant became my absolute favorite. Creamy, spicy, and wrapped in a soft, slightly vanillic sandalwood, it feels both comforting and refined. @voyagesimaginairesparfums@camillegoutal 

Mabelle O'Rama perfumer

Mabelle O’Rama / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

I also really enjoyed discovering Mabelle O’Rama. The brand feels deeply personal, rooted in the founder’s journey as a Lebanese British perfumer and artist who turned to scent as a form of emotional exploration during the pandemic.  The collection is small – just three fragrances – but it feels cohesive and thoughtfully constructed, with each scent expressing a different emotional tone. Phoenix Flame is the most recent addition, bringing a slightly more assertive energy, but it was Lunar Dust that resonated with me the most. Built around white woods, iris, amber, and cedarwood, it unfolds as something soft, enveloping, and almost meditative. @mabelle_orama

Madagascar Le Baume Vanille

Madagascar Le Baume Vanille / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

Passing by Parfum d’Empire, I had to stop for Madagascar Le Baume Vanille. As a vanilla lover, I’ve explored countless interpretations of the note, and many of them tend to blur into one another. But Marc-Antoine Corticchiato managed to create something that truly stands apart. This is not a simple sweet vanilla. It’s rich, layered, and full-bodied – boozy, slightly spicy, and deeply addictive. There is a warmth to it that feels almost enveloping, yet it maintains a level of refinement that keeps it from becoming overwhelming. It’s the kind of fragrance that immediately draws you in and lingers in your memory long after. Without hesitation, I would say it’s one of the most impressive vanilla compositions I’ve tried in recent years – and I still regret not purchasing a bottle on the spot. @parfumdempire

Milleseve Chere Collette

Millesève / Photo credit: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

Before wrapping up, I stopped by Millesève, a newly launched French brand that had been generating quite a buzz throughout the event. Naturally, I was curious to see what the excitement was about. The collection feels authentic and well-crafted, with a clear sense of direction despite being so new. There is a certain ease to the fragrances – nothing feels overly complicated, yet they are far from generic. Among them, Chère Colette stood out immediately. Its interpretation of linden blossom feels both fresh and distinctive, capturing a slightly nostalgic atmosphere while still feeling modern. There is something very evocative about it – almost like a memory you can’t fully place but instantly recognize. I have a strong feeling this might become a standout favorite as the brand continues to grow. @milleseveparis

What were the best brands

Paris Perfume Week 2026  crowds / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

Paris Perfume Week 2026 confirmed something I’ve been sensing for a while: niche perfumery is evolving rapidly. It is no longer a small, insider-driven world, but a growing, expanding universe filled with new voices, new ideas, and new aesthetics. What stood out the most this year was the balance between emerging brands bringing fresh perspectives and established names continuing to refine their identity without losing depth. There is more experimentation, more freedom, and less fear of stepping outside traditional structures.

And while it is impossible to see and smell everything in just a few days, that’s part of the beauty of it. You leave knowing you’ve only scratched the surface – with a mind full of impressions, a list of new discoveries, and the quiet excitement of knowing there is still so much more to explore.

Kristina Kybartaite-Damule, Guest Contributor

 Disclosure: I received samples, purchased some fragrances; opinions my own

 

Dusita Le Pavillion D'Or

Notes: Wild Mentha Citrata, Honeysuckle, Orris Root; Boronia, Frankincense, White Thyme, Heliotrope, Fig Leaf; OakwoodAustralian Sandalwood.

Thanks to the generosity of Parfums Dusita, we have a 50 ml bottle of Le Pavillon d’Or for one registered reader. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, in the EU, USA, UK. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you find most interesting based on Kristina’s Paris Perfume Week 2026 report and where you live. Draw closes 4/19/2026

Watch Kristina on TikTok here

Coming Soon: Part 2 by Senior Contributor Oli Marlow

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42 comments

  • LindenNoir says:

    Kristina’s report made me feel like I was walking the aisles of the Palais Brongniart myself, dodging crowds and discovering hidden gems. What I found most interesting is her observation that Paris Perfume Week has “truly exploded” in scale, from an intimate gathering to an event with over 160 brands from around the world, with people “already queuing outside in the street” before opening. That hunger for niche perfumery is so palpable in her writing. Her description of meeting Pissara Umavijani at the Dusita boutique particularly resonated with me: “meeting her always feels like meeting an old friend. She has a natural warmth and openness, and she is endlessly inspiring – not only as a perfumer but also as a painter.” That personal connection, the sense of an artist who pours herself into multiple creative mediums, makes me want to experience her work even more. Le Pavillon d’Or, with its notes of wild mentha citrata, honeysuckle, orris root, boronia, frankincense, white thyme, heliotrope, fig leaf, oakwood, and Australian sandalwood, sounds like a luminous, green, and quietly complex composition.

    EU

  • AromaAdventurer says:

    Kristina’s report is a treasure trove of discoveries, but the moment that made me pause was her reaction to Parfum d’Empire Madagascar Le Baume Vanille: “As a vanilla lover, I’ve explored countless interpretations of the note, and many of them tend to blur into one another. But Marc-Antoine Corticchiato managed to create something that truly stands apart. This is not a simple sweet vanilla. It’s rich, layered, and full-bodied – boozy, slightly spicy, and deeply addictive.” The fact that she still regrets “not purchasing a bottle on the spot” is the most honest, relatable endorsement I’ve ever read. That kind of genuine, unscripted longing tells me everything about the quality of that fragrance. But the giveaway is for Dusita Le Pavillon d’Or, and Kristina’s description of Pissara Umavijani’s approach to perfumery—her ability to handle difficult materials like lemongrass “without any overly culinary associations,” creating something “bright, luminous, and fresh, with a refined elegance” makes me trust her artistry completely. A perfumer who paints, who draws, who approaches scent with an artist’s eye and a poet’s soul is exactly whose work I want on my skin. I am from the EU

  • The venue sounds all the way live being that it has representation from all corners of the earth. Assuming that it’s nothing like going to a department store or even a novelty scents shop. Those who take pleasure in crafting & indulging in the arts rather than simply catering to consumer reports and trending market prospects for upcoming seasons. The text talks of the personability and laid back atmosphere in a bouquet. It gives the fragcom leeway to venture and blossom outside of the daily rigotmoro that simple sales based companies put out. From USA

  • Brad Woolslayer says:

    Paris perfume week sounds like a really nice way to spend a day discovering new fragrances. I was especially drawn to the fragrances of Elisire. The vision of desire translated into scent. I would have loved to try those fragrances. I would also love to win a bottle of Le Pavillon d’Or. I live in Maryland USA.

  • I know there was so much depth to this post, but the thing I found most interesting was that Neela opened her first shop in Paris! That’s wonderful. Regarding Le Pavillion D’Or, I would love to try this. The orris root, honeysuckle, and fig really interests me – I’m imagining the scent of all the notes intertwined right now! I live in Colorado, USA.

  • Wow, what a dream job Kristina has! I love how personal her lens is when it comes to niche houses. Kristina has treated each perfume like a story, not a product, and that makes the best of show feel less like a ranking and more like “these are the scents that made me feel something.” I love that.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Parfum d’Empire’s Madagascar Le Baume Vanille is most interesting to me. Kristina calls it one of the most impressive vanillas she’s tried in years – rich, boozy, spicy, and addictive instead of just sweet. That level of depth in a vanilla note stands out in a sea of launches. I live in Poland, EU

  • Super nice seeing some old, well-established brands still being active and coming up with interesting releases, whilst also seeing some new names for the first time, an evident proof that in the world of perfumery, there is place for everyone to enjoy this hobby! Thank you! Very excited to get to try this one from Parfums Dusita!
    I am in the EU.

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    I want a perfume with fig that, together with heliotrope and honeysuckle, would give the freshness I desire. I am from EU

  • As someone who used to live in the humid, tropical climate, I found Kristina’s report absolutely captivating, especially the technical feat of Parfums Dusita’s Light of Bangkok. Lemongrass is everywhere in my homeland, but it’s notoriously difficult to wear without smelling like a kitchen, so Pissara Umavijani’s ability to refine it into something luminous and elegant sounds like a dream for that kind of heat. I’m also particularly intrigued by the new 50% concentration extraits from The Different Company; in a place where fragrances often evaporate within an hour, a high-concentration aromatic like Gin-Seng feels like a total game-changer. Seeing the event explode to such a massive scale at the Palais Brongniart really reinforces my feeling that niche perfumery is no longer just for “insiders,” but a vibrant, global conversation that even reaches in the islands.

    I reside in the United States.

  • Well a lot to enjoy and discover. I think the extrait releases by The Different Co has my interest the most, especially Gen Seng… along with Pothos by Angelo’s. He always does a floral fabulously! But I do love Spoturno, Dusita, anything by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Neela Vermeire etc. I have been wanting to try Lunar Dust! Everything sounds phenomenal. I am located in the U.S. thank you for the generous giveaway!

  • Well a lot to enjoy and discover. I think the extrait releases by The Different Co has my interest the most, especially Gen Seng… along with Pothos by Angelo’s. He always does a floral fabulously! But I do love Spoturno, Dusita, anything by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Neela Vermeire etc. I have been wanting to try Lunar Dust! Everything sounds phenomenal. I am located in the U.S. thank you for the generous giveaway!

  • Patricia R. says:

    I found the mention of Neela Vermeire talking about perfume in an engaging way, about history and creation, culture and heritage intriguing and worthy of exploring. I also find the described interplay between the brightness of yuzu and tangy nuance of Ume particularly exotic and different from what I am used to in this part of the world. I live in the EU.

  • Zoran Loncarevic says:

    Millesève i would have been very interested in it as a new brand. Overall, the event was certainly very interesting and exciting. Best regards from Germany.

  • cindy.fragrance says:

    What a beautiful recap!
    Hopefully I have the chance to visit Paris Perfume Week next year… It just looks so more intimate and special than my visit at Esxence last year which I didn’t enjoy too much.
    And it seems that also more interesting smaller houses are willing to attend and present their creations in Paris.
    Le Pavillon d’Or has been on my wishlist for a while!
    Good luck to everyone and greetings from Germany. 🙂

  • What a wonderful report from Paris Perfume Week 2026! So many discoveries to unpack, but what struck me most was the visit to Voyages Imaginaires — the idea that a fully natural perfume line can be this expressive, complex, and layered genuinely challenges assumptions I’ve held about natural perfumery. Comme un Gant sounds like something I’d reach for constantly: creamy, spicy, sandalwood-driven comfort without apology.

    That said, the fragrance that lodged itself deepest in my mind after reading is Madagascar Le Baume Vanille. Kristina’s regret at not buying it on the spot says more than any score or rating ever could.

    As for the giveaway — Le Pavillon d’Or has been on my radar for a while. The combination of boronia, heliotrope, fig leaf, and Australian sandalwood sounds like something quietly extraordinary. I’m in the EU (Netherlands).

  • So jealous Kristina! Paris perfume week 2026 sounds like a fabulous experience with so many new and young exhibiters from all over the world. I was particularly interested in the vintage inspired Spoturno 1921 made with modern ingredients. Le Pavilion d’Or from Parfums Dusita sounds perfect for spring with honeysuckle, heliotrope and the mentha citrata. MD, USA

  • Kristina brings us a new niche perfume fair, which, like other more established ones, does more than just help us grow: the interest in the world of perfume is there and spills out of the fairgrounds and throughout the city. As it should always be in this niche, experimentation, freedom, and courage to break free from traditional structures are key. Regarding Dusita, a visit to Bangkok is a must, and although we didn’t manage to stay at the Mandarin Oriental, I would buy her Light of Bangkok and enjoy my beloved Lemongrass. Staying in Asia, I would love to smell the unclassifiable Asura, where the duality between beauty and strength is evident. If a few days ago Mr. Balami presented us with E-lectron ,a personal musc, at Cafleurbon, he already has a new creation, a luscious honeysuckle soliflore called Pothos. I live in Spain, EU.

  • What stayed with me is that feeling of perfume as a living story, especially the way some scents seem to shift like light through amber. I’m deeply drawn to the contrast between airy, luminous compositions and those darker, resinous textures that feel almost grounding. The idea of new brands bringing such emotional and creative depth makes me feel excited to rediscover perfume all over again.
    Greetings from EU

  • What I found most interesting is how Kristina frames Paris Perfume Week as proof that niche perfumery is becoming much bigger, more experimental, and more emotionally expressive without losing its craftsmanship. I also love that she highlights both brand-new names and more established houses, because it shows the scene isn’t just growing in size, it’s growing in range, confidence, and creative ambition, which makes the whole event feel less like a trade fair and more like a living snapshot of where fragrance is headed.

    – USA –

  • Kristina notes that niche perfumery has evolved beyond the small, close-knit community it was, expanding as the interest in the artistry of niche scents gains popularity, with new brands, ideas and aesthetics emerging; established brands continue to reinvent while maintaining their identity without sacrificing quality, embracing the freedom of experimentation, challenging the traditional aspects of perfumery.
    CA USA

  • I love Atelier Materli, I am a big fan of their Cedre Figalia and their neroli, so I am very curious about Tonka Kumaru. Also the paragraph about the vanilla from Parfum d’empire, my God, that sounds delicious. It made me very curious, so now I am going to hunt some samples to quench my thirst. Thank you for the article EU

  • It’s quotes like these that will take me directly to the poor house one day with all my blind buys. “There is nothing flat or predictable about them. Instead, they feel alive, evolving on the skin with a kind of quiet sophistication that doesn’t rely on volume or obvious effects.” I’m in the US.

  • Ramses Perez says:

    Kristina had a ball at Paris Perfume week. The houses she chose to showcase here are ones I currently don’t have any fragrances from them but I have tried in the past and they are magical. As expected lots of new releases were presented but I also like how each house made their area be unique and in sync with their aesthetic and fragrances. I do think fragrances are evolving and houses are taking more risks and I appreciate that. Gourmands are still as prevalent as ever but they are coming with twists and turns you don’t expect. A great event and to many more! I’m located in the USA.

  • FragranceFrenzyS says:

    What I found most interesting about Kristina’s report is her perspective as someone who has been “immersed in niche perfumery for more than a decade” yet still found “many brands were completely new to me.” That sense of endless discovery, of a universe that keeps expanding, is exactly what keeps me passionate about this hobby. Her visits to Maison Spoturno at the Galerie Vivienne and hearing Christopher Sheldrake speak about working with historical formula books while “never imposing limits on his own creativity” sounds like a once-in-a-lifetime experience. And her description of Spoturno 1921 “everything I personally love about vintage perfumery… yet none of the elements I tend to find challenging” makes me desperate to try it. But the Dusita giveaway is the focus, and Kristina’s warmth toward Pissara Umavijani is so genuine. The idea of a perfumer who creates a fragrance for the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok’s 150th anniversary, built around lemongrass yet achieving “bright, luminous, and fresh” rather than culinary, shows a rare level of skill. Le Pavillon d’Or, with its intriguing blend of minty, floral, resinous, and woody notes, sounds like a perfect introduction to her world.
    EU

  • Kristina’s report is a masterclass in event coverage, she doesn’t just list what she smelled; she captures the atmosphere, the energy, the human connections. What I found most interesting is how she weaves together the personal and the professional. Her description of meeting Neela Vermeire at her first flagship boutique in Paris, where “every creation carries a sense of history, culture, and heritage,” and revisiting the Fragments collection, falling for Thyina with its “dark, resinous, and gently infused with a subtle coffee nuance,” made me want to immediately seek it out. Her discovery of Voyages Imaginaires “composed entirely from natural ingredients yet completely defying the common perception that natural perfumery lacks depth”—challenges my own biases. And her excitement about Mabelle O’Rama, a brand born from “emotional exploration during the pandemic,” shows how perfumery can be a form of healing and self-expression. Throughout all these discoveries, the thread that runs is authenticity perfumers who pour themselves into their work. EU.

  • I could never skip visiting Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Creations. Meeting Neela herself is always a highlight of any event. There is something deeply engaging in the way she speaks about perfume – every creation carries a sense of history, culture, and heritage, and you can feel that nothing is accidental in her work. A methodical and comprehensive review of the houses but Neela Vermiere is a house that has touched my heart. Thanks a million from the UK

  • From Greece, Angelos Créations Olfactives presented Pothos, a name that translates to “lust.” While it is described by its creator Angelos Balamis as a honeysuckle soliflore, the reality feels far more complex and layered than that definition suggest. On skin, the fragrance unfolds with a richness that goes beyond a single floral note. The honeysuckle is certainly there – luminous, slightly nectar-like – but it is surrounded by subtle nuances that give it depth and movement. There is a sense of warmth, a gentle sweetness, and a textured quality that keeps evolving rather than settling into something linear. I was clearly not the only one drawn to it – the tester bottle was almost empty by the time I arrived at Angelos’ stand, which says everything about how well it resonated with visitors. @angelos_creations_olfactives @angel_bal A beautiful piece by Kristina but Angelo’s creations is a house that I need to explore further just exquisite. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Wow this sounds like such a great event with amazing perfumers there. I can imagine you need a part two with all the amazing work exhibited there! I’m very keen to try light of Bangkok as it sounds like Pissara’s perfumery at her best. Also really want to explore Voyages Imaginaires this year as I keep hearing the best things about them but haven’t managed to smell them yet. I’d like to visit Paris fragrance week myself one day. Thanks for the draw Marit Netherlands

  • It’s truly special to meet the artists while experiencing their perfumes—it allows you to appreciate their creations more deeply and discover insights that might otherwise go unnoticed. I would love to explore the fragrances of Parfums Dusita, as I haven’t yet had the chance to connect with the brand. Le Pavillon d’Or seems like a beautifully comforting scent, perfect to wear whenever you’re in a peaceful and serene mood.
    Italy

  • I would have been so overwhelmed going to such an exciting event. It was nice to read about familiar houses and ones I’ve never heard of before. What a glorious opportunity to spend some days in the bubble of fragrance learning about all these houses, their methods, and their materials, not to mention their inspiration. In Maryland, USA

  • goknitintheocean says:

    Hi there,

    Ah to be in Paris for a show! Similar envy as towards my work colleagues at the Bologna Book Festival last week 🙂 It’s always especially nice to read updates about more familiar brands, and what they’re up to these days. Parfum D’Empire’s Madagascar Le Baume Vanille sounds like it would scratch a very deep itch I am having around spicy, boozy vanilla blends(though honestly vanilla is so seasonal for me that I can probably wait until fall of this year to settle on a new one). Parfums Dusita’s Light of Bangkok sounds incredible; I’ve been thinking a lot about my experiences at the Mandarin Oriental in Miami, which disturbingly was just detonated/exploded to make room for some other new and unnecessary real estate, but I digress…Anyway, at the Miami location I often had within my room the most delightful toiletries, and while they may have been more white floral/tropical in scent, the lemongrass in this new Dusita is very compelling! Thank you so much for sharing these experiences with us.

    Deborah
    NYC/USA

  • LightOfJoy says:

    Thank you for your report, Kristina! I enjoyed reading the expansiveness that seems to be happening in the Niche world currently.

    I always am fascinated by Pissara. She seems to maintain as much energy and passion now as she had when she began her company. I loved hearing about her new perfume, Light of Bangkok, and I know it is done with the grace and class that all of Parfums Dusita exude. I enjoyed testing Le Pavillon d’Or and would absolutely love to win the drawing for this bottle.

    I live in the USA.

  • Marques Burgess says:

    Man… what really grabs me is how massive and alive the whole thing feels. It is not just a recap, it is proof that niche perfumery is expanding fast and people are hungry for it. I like that mix of discovery and overload, where even someone experienced is still finding new brands.
    I am especially drawn to the balance between artistry and accessibility, seeing names like Christopher Sheldrake alongside emerging houses. It feels like the culture is shifting, but not losing its soul.
    I live in New Jersey, USA

  • I’m soooo jealous I couldn’t be there Kristina! Two of my favorite perfumers were there and I just so happen to have also missed out on smelling the ones you adored. Corticchiato and Doyen have made my favorite scents of all time and I haven’t smelled his vanilla scent or that entire line by doyen. This article is making me feel so silly for not doing so I have to get on it. Nuit de Bakelite and all of the goutal scents doyen has made are the gems of my collection alongside eau de gloire and mal aime of Parfum d’empire. I have some research to do lol. I live in the usa

  • Shibuichi2000 says:

    I’d probably run around like a headless chicken at a perfume related event, so let’s leave that to the professionals. It was satisfying to read her experience and to find out new things about established brands (like TDC) or exciting things about new brands. At this point, though, I’m either hoping to grow some love for the gourmands or just wait this trend to get to an end :).
    I’m in EU.

  • I would very like to go an event like this one day. I very enjoyed Kristina’s report. Dusita Le Pavillon d’Or sounds amazing to me. I would be very glad if I would be the lucky winner. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • 160 brands is already a grand event, but the worldwide representation is even more impressive. Spoturno 1921 sounds like an interesting composition, using vintage elements but swapping out the animalics with modern replacements, modernizing without losing appeal. The Different Company extraits also sound compelling; strength with finesse. FUMparFUM Tokyo Songs is also cool, with that tangy Ume note, and impressionistic references to Japanese cuisine. So much to enjoy here. Thanks to Parfums Dusita for the giveaway.

    I’m in WI, USA.

  • What an incredible and exhaustive overview, thank you for the write up! Voyages Imaginaires sounds like the house for me, I love that they’re subverting the expectation of natural perfumery being too light or thin compared to more mainstream synthetic compositions. Comme Un Gant sounds like a dream, I need a milky and warm skin scent that doesn’t sit so close to the skin!

    I live in the US!

  • foreverscents says:

    I hope that I can attend an event like this in the future. It’s wonderful to see familiar perfume houses like Parfums Dusita, Neela Vermeire Creations, Cherigan, and The Different Company. And then there is the opportunity to be introduced to new houses such as FUMparFUM, Toba, and Millesève. I am particularly interested in Chère Collette because I adore the writing of Colette.
    Thank you Parfums Dusita for the giveaway of Le Pavillon d’Or.
    I live in the USA.

  • What an excellent report! I loved hearing about so many new houses I was unfamiliar with. Parfums d’Empire’s deep vanilla, Angelos, and Voyage Imaginaires sounded especially interesting to me. Dusita has been one of my most sought-after perfume houses for years! I live in Indiana

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for such an expansive and generous recap, Kristina! What I find most interesting is the sheer range of discoveries packed into a single report — from Pissara Umavijani taming the notoriously tricky lemongrass note into something luminous and refined for Light of Bangkok, to Christopher Sheldrake bridging historical Coty formulas with modern molecules at Spoturno, to the quiet revelation of Voyages Imaginaires proving that all-natural compositions can project and evolve with the complexity of any synthetic-assisted work. The throughline connecting all of it is your observation that niche perfumery is no longer a small insider world but a genuinely expanding universe, and the energy of people queuing in the street before opening really brings that home. Parfums Dusita has long been a house I admire for that same quality Kristina describes in Pissara — warmth, artistry, and a sense that nothing is accidental. I’d love to try Le Pavillon d’Or. Cheers from WI, USA