J’s image of Ormonde Jayne Oud Liaisons
With an espresso tonic in hand and a quick spin cutting through the National Gallery via my favourite Mainie Jellett painting I made my way to Merrion Square to meet the dynamic Linda Pilkington, founder, creative director and perfumer of Ormonde Jayne at an event co-hosted by the lovely Marija Aslimoska of Parfumarija in Dublin. They introduced us to to three of the Four Corners Reimagined line to date; Patchouli d’Atlas, Bijou Zafron and Oud Liaisons (there is a new one debuting later this year).
Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne and Marija Aslimoska of Parfumarija at the Ormonde Jayne x Parfumarija The Four Corners Reimagined release event Dublin (photo by Edgar Allan).
When Linda speaks about Ormonde Jayne, you can feel her love for perfumery, ingredients and authentic storytelling. Ormonde Jayne was among the first Western niche houses to use oud after Linda found Cambodian oud on a trip (it’s prominent in Ormonde Man from 2004). The Four Corners Reimagined line was inspired after Linda heard David Bowie talk about his use of the cut-up technique to form lyrics, one he borrowed from William Burroughs. She decided this would be a great way to approach fragrance and to create something new.
Ormonde Jayne Four Corners Reimagined Patchouli d’Atlas, Bijou Zafran and Oud Liaisons from Ormonde Jayne photo by J.
We each received a bottle that was engraved at the boutique with whatever we wanted written. I had “Rebel Rebel” carved into the back of mine in honour of the Thin White Duke; Linda’s inspiration for the Four Corners Reimagined line. It was a splendid event and Linda and Marija were wonderful hosts, thank you both for having me. I was torn between Bijou Zafran, (that pear and saffron combination is so unique) and it nearly came home with me, but Oud Liaisons enticed me and wouldn’t let me go.
J’s Ormonde Jayne Oud Liaisons bottle being engraved and the result, photos by J.
Ormonde Jayne Oud Liaisons opens with a vibrant burst of citrus. Sparkling rosy tones meet spiced greens and the dark twist of liquorice adds beautiful contrast. Oud Liaisons’ green tones are lured into its shadowy depths, as a protective woody bark envelops the rose. The liquorice note adds richness to the composition, smoothed with a subtle use of vanilla while the patchouli is earthy.
Perfumer Anne-Louise Gautier of of Expressions Parfumées and her composition Oud Liaisons for Ormonde Jayne via the brand.
Oud Liaisons is driven by desire, as the enticing liquorice and oud woods beckon from below. A love that shouldn’t be but works oh so well. Oud Liaison’s liquorice note reminds of Finnish liquorice, the sweet kind not the salty salmiakki, which is rich and addictive for me to smell and to eat. You sense the rose yielding, settling onto a musk cushioned bed. A pinch of black pepper adds a touch of drama as Oud Liaisons’ floral side recede and the complex woods and oud take the fore. The oud of Oud Liaisons is deftly used, you feel its opulence, all rough edges smoothed away.
Ormonde Jayne Oud Liaisons via the brand and photo of Linda Pilkington by Edgar Allan.
Again, there’s another shift as Oud Liaisons evolves. The rose returns as the heat of the spices tease out more of its facets of cypriol and the petals are now wrapped in the supple suede. The rose and oud dance a tango of desire and its the smoky woods that remain with me kissed by memories of the liquorice and rose. The textual experience of Oud Liaisons is spectacular; its blending is superb and its transitions beautiful. Like all the brand’s perfumes, Ormonde Jayne put the fine in fine fragrance. Perfumer Anne-Louise Gautier with Linda Pilkington has composed something amazing here a fragrance creating a love story that plays out on your skin.
Notes: Rose, Lemon, Licorice, Pink Pepper, Oud, Suede, Guaiac Wood, Patchouli, Musk, Cypriol, Vanilla.
Disclosure: a bottle Ormonde Jayne Oud Liaisons was generously gifted by the brand at the Ormonde Jayne x Parfumarija event in Dublin. I would like to thank both Linda and Marjia for inviting me. Thoughts and nose are always my own.
J Wearescentient, Senior Editor, artist & olfactive writer.
Ormonde Jayne Oud Liaisons courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Ormonde Jayne, we have a 88ml bottle of Oud Liaisons available for a reader in North America/EU/UK for a giveaway. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on J’s review and where you live. Draw closes 7/11/26
You can read Oli’s review of Bijou Zafran here.
Ormonde Jayne is available exclusively in Ireland at Parfumarija.
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