On The Nose Perfumes I Land In Thailand

“The land of smiles
It’s said to be
Where everybody is happy
And as welcoming as one can be.
Hugging you with open arms
And sharing with you the warmth of their hearts.” ~ excerpt from The Land of Smiles, by the poet Ropai

Jet Set Ouds by Gabrielle

There are no two ways about it: everyone I’ve ever met has an opinion about oud. Agarwood (oud) is one of the polarizing olfactory materials we encounter in perfumery; its sheer power may feel intimidating to some, and inspirational to others. There exist multiple varieties of this precious resinous heartwood from several geographical locations – each with its own distinct personality. For many Western noses, it may require patience and time to better acquaint ourselves and appreciate it more fully. Natural perfumer Gabrielle Durand of On The Nose Perfumes decided to explore three of the many faces of oud in her recent limited edition trio The Jet Set Ouds. This trio includes Assam oud (Adventure In Assam), Burmese oud (Meander To Mandalay), and Thai oud (I Land In Thailand). She kindly sent me samples last week, and it was very difficult for me to choose just one. That extrait (all these fragrances are extrait concentration) was I Land In Thailand. How could I resist the very thought of Thailand – lovingly referred to as The Land of Smiles?

 

On The Nose Perfumes I Land in Thailand mood board by Gabrielle Durand

I thoroughly enjoyed each one and chose to review I Land In Thailand both for its beauty and wearability. Although none of the Jet Set trio skews gourmand, this one flirts with the foody in an elegant, illuminated manner, particularly in I Land In Thailand’s introduction. It’s sophisticated, lively, and its own master – qualities that appeal to many of us. I have experienced a significant number of oud fragrances over the past 20 years, and this one stands its ground.

Oud AI by Michelyn

While we’re on the subject of oud/aloeswood/agarwood, perhaps we should explore the subject a bit more. Despite the fact that there are so many natural ouds from which to choose, the oil is quite pricey. Gabrielle Durand is a natural perfumer, so you can be certain that she employs the real deal. It is quite common, however, for perfumers to recreate/emulate the complex aroma without actually using true agarwood in a formula. I like to refer to this approach as “trompe-nez”, or “fool the nose”. You might be surprised. One of the first olfactory materials I encountered was nagarmotha,aka cypriol: with its intense, smoky woodiness, it’s easy to see how this could form the backbone for an oud substitute. Cypriol isn’t alone; Kephalis® and Norlimbanol® contribute depth and a scratchy intensity: very potent. Patchouli adds earthiness and tenacity. Famous houses create excellent bases, such as Firmenich’s Oud Synth 10760E™, or Givaudan’s Black Agar Givco™, for example. The more horsey aspects of oud can be evoked by the utilization of p-creosol or 4-propyl phenol; if one desires the medicinal band-aid facet, chromone molecules (related to the flavonoid family) or 2,4-xylenol (a volatile phenol compound derived from coal tar) can be pressed into service. All that one smells may not be oud, even in very expensive perfumes.  On the Nose Perfumes I Land In Thailand there can be no doubt that Gabrielle’s chosen oud is a real and precious one.

 Burning Agarwood as incense AI by Michelyn

Another, perhaps surprising characteristic of genuine oud – apart from all of its therapeutic uses in traditional Asian medicine – is that it is intensely psychoactive. I discovered this aspect many years ago when a few well-known distillers were kind enough to share their plethora of ouds with me (purely for my prurient curiosity). There’s a very good reason why agarwood has played a major role in sacred devotional rituals all these years: it can be consciousness-altering. I was working my way through a large series of mini vials when I had to stop: I was unable to think clearly, and I felt distinctly odd and otherworldly. Until that moment, I had been highly skeptical – but I finally understood the nature of these distillations. Reconstructions don’t possess this characteristic. No fear as regards I Land In Thailand: everything is deftly balanced, not raw and elemental.

Pexels Anna Shvets

On The Nose Perfumes I Land In Thailand possesses the loveliest beginning, even if you aren’t usually a tropical fruit person. It’s not uncommon for me to forgo fragrances listing guava, pineapple, mango and coconut – simply because they don’t ring true to my nose. Gabrielle Durand’s choice of materials, however, is sublime and authentic. I Land In Thailand’s nosefeel (think mouthfeel) evokes all the tang, the pineyness, the juicy veracity and true creaminess (re: coconut) of the tropical fruits themselves. In this phase, we derive a sense of playfulness, a lightness of heart. Its amiable well-being enfolds you.

 

 On The Nose Perfumes I land in Thailand image by Gabrielle

Exotic blossoms are not far behind frangipani, ylang-ylang, orange blossom. These narcotic aromas never overwhelm you; they complement the perfumer’s fruits in an unforced, natural fashion. We’re in the tropics, and no mistake. More challenging for me to comprehend is the inclusion of the Trat (or Tratt) rose which is native to Thailand (aka rosa cymosa), also referred to as elderflower rose. I’d not seen it listed before, but reliable sources inform me that its scent is rich, deep, and complex – possessing a rosy intensity combined with butteriness, dark red berries, sweet woodiness, and a jammy spiced quality.

Trat Rose (Rosa cymosa) with Thai elements AI by Michelyn

This might contribute to some of the spiciness which is integral to this perfume. I Land In Thailand’s base showcases Thai oud, which is often described as being woody, animalic, and sweet. Depending upon the variety used, these distillates may smell more verdant, fruity, and/or spicy; whatever the choice, the overall effect here is gently spicy. Gabrielle encircles this with a Chinese cedarwood (cedarwood funebris), oakwood, and African muhuhu wood (aka African sandalwood) which exhibits balsamic facets of vetiver: an intricate marriage of the dry, dusty, powdery, creamy, the delicately boozy, and the gourmand. A murmur of incense rests weightlessly upon I Land In Thailand’s warm, sultry base.

On The Nose Perfumes Jet Set triad of oud-centric extraits provide an opportunity to experience agarwood in concert with other fragrant notes uniquely, because a) oud is the leading character; and b) these perfumes are not intimidating for those who are just beginning to explore the medium. Whether you are just commencing your fragrant journey or you have an experienced nose, I think that you will find I Land In Thailand to be a delightful addition to your fragrance wardrobe.

Notes: guava, pineapple, mango, coconut, Trat rose, frangipani, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, Thai oud, muhuhu, cedarwood funebris (aka Chinese cedarwood), oakwood, incense

Samples kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks. My nose is my own.

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Please read Gabrielle Durand’s Profile in American Perfumery. Gabrielle is also a Guest Contributor for Cafleurebon: Notes from the lab, her latest feature was Green Materials in Perfumery. Gabrielle is featured in our Natural Perfumery Next Gen Article. Please read Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor Ida Meister’s reviews of Thorny Issue and Honey Trap and Editor Sandi Lundberg’s review of Solar Flair and Sainte Vanille.

On The Nose Perfumes I land in Thailand is a Limited edition

Thanks to the generosity of On The Nose Perfumes, we can offer a 15 ml full sized bottle ($195.00) of I Land In Thailand give away to a lucky, randomly selected registered reader in the Continental USA. You must register for your entry to be counted. To be eligible, please comment on what sparks your interest in Ida’s review, and where you live, in the US.

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