Lesser Known Notes in Perfume (Part 1: Flowers) + Darren Alan Perfumes Wistful Wisteria Giveaway

June 13, 2026June 13, 2026

Collage of Lesser Known Flower Notes Used in Perfumery

Not all fragrant flowers have been afforded center stage. While florals like rose, jasmine, and muguet, for example, are frequently featured in starring and supporting roles, others seldom appear as soliflores, and if appearing at all, are typically accents in a bouquet. Here, we profile eight flowers that appear in perfumery for their beautiful and provocative character but are unfairly overlooked. In fact, many are not familiar with their scent profiles at all.

Hawthorn flowers photo – free use

Hawthorn: Now not all species of hawthorn trees have flowers that emit a fragrance, and still others have an odor, but it’s not exactly attractive. Crataegus monogyna, for example, has flowers that when experienced up close smell pungent, even somewhat fishy, due to their containing a compound called trimethylamine. This just happens to be the chemical released in the decaying tissue of an animal carcass. However, experienced from just the right distance, the scent of a tree in bloom has a more pleasant headspace, as it were. There are other species, Crataegus phaenopyrum and Crataegus marshallii flowers, for example that have a more affable pungency when experienced more intimately. Depending on the hawthorn species, some are spicy, honeyed, powdery, almond-like, with facets of ripe jasmine, lilac, and heliotrope. Most notably, there is a distinct anisic quality. In fact, anisaldehyde is the main constituent in constructing a classic hawthorn perfumery accord. I would hazard to say that there is something to the undertone of decay to hawthorn blossoms that lend a mystique not dissimilar to that of other flowers and perfume materials. There are bases such as De Laire’s Aubepine Extra and a W. A. Poucher base.

Hermes Hermessence Cuir d’Ange, Santa Maria Novella’s iconic Peau d’Espagne, Frederic Malle L’Eau d’Hiver, Totally White 126 Parle Moi De Parfum and Anatole Lebreton L’Eau du Merzhin photos by Joseph Colbourne

It seems that perfumers may be drawn to a hawthorn accord when composing a leather perfume. In Hermes Hermessence Cuir d’Ange, Jean Claude Ellena incorporates hawthorn into his plush, impressionistic composition. In Santa Maria Novella’s iconic Peau d’Espagne, hawthorn’s anisic pungency seems to lend texture to its just cured and tanned hide effect. The diaphanous beauty of Frederic Malle’s L’Eau d’Hiver sees Ellena again working with the trio of hawthorn, heliotrope, and violet flowers to evoke a waning winter’s chill just before spring’s renewal. Totally White 126, with its magnificent wisteria and white lilac, has hawthorn in the periphery to support its magic. Lastly, but certainly not least, Anatole Lebreton’s L’Eau du Merzhin showcases perhaps the most forward hawthorn accord of them all, at least to my nose, flanked with green grass, hay, angelica, and a cool, enveloping orris.

Broom flowers photo – free use

Broom (Genet): Broom flower, also known as genet, just so happens to yield a solvent-extracted absolute that has been used in perfumery for ages. It is the variety Spartium junceum L that is used. Known colloquially as Spanish broom, this plant in the Fabaceae or legume family has sunny yellow flowers and is native to the southern Mediterranean region of Europe. Its scent evokes a sunlit meadow, honeyed, vanillic, warmly hay-like, with woody-green overtones. Unfortunately, the plant has become a nuisance invasive in the U.S., and they now grow everywhere in the dunes of Cape Cod, but their appeal and affable aroma cannot be denied. The solvent-extracted absolute is among my favorite natural raw materials.

Broom flowers used in Ginestra, by Santa Maria Novella, Oeilleres from Roberto Greco, Jacques Fath, L’Oree du Bois, Astier de Villate La Dieu, Bleuphotos by Joseph Colbourne©

There is much-lamented discontinued soliflore, Ginestra, by Santa Maria Novella, that immediately comes to mind. It dazzles me with its impression of sun-drenched Spanish broom, supple yellow florals and summer wildflowers. The mythic Oeilleres from Roberto Greco features broom in its mélange of agrestic hay, chamomile, and savory herbs; the broom seems right at home in this setting. The underrated release from Jacques Fath, L’Oree du Bois, sees broom joining other sunny, rich yellow flowers as mimosa and ylang-ylang for a bouquet that is punctuated with honey, spice, and autumnal woods. Lastly, Astier de Villate La Dieu Bleu, a recreation of a 3000-year-old Egyptian kyphi perfume formula by Dominique Ropion, features broom among calamus, myrrh, mastic and spices.

Reseda flower photo – free use

Reseda (Mignonette): The noble reseda flower (Reseda odorata), also known as mignonette (“little darling”), is native to the Mediterranean Basin but has been introduced to many parts of the world. Its ambrosial, honeyed scent with fruity-green overtones features facets of violet and raspberry due to high ionone content. A solvent-extracted absolute exists but it has low yield, limited production, and if it can be accessed, it is prohibitively expensive. Perfumers will compound their own reconstruction bases and there is also Reseda Body (Reseda acetal), produced by IFF.

Esteé Lauder Private Collection, Hermes Hermessence Paprika Basil, Dior Dune Pour Homme photos by Joseph Colbourne ©

When analyzing vintage Esteé Lauder Private Collection, I’ve noted just how forward three floral accords are in the mix: chrysanthemum, linden blossom, and not-quite-ripe-berry-ionone mignonette. Jean Claude Ellena appears here again with another from the Hermessence line, Paprika Basil, where reseda underlines the heat with its quenching green-violet strokes. The late 90s brought us Dune Pour Homme, at a time where fig was burgeoning in perfume and in this instance, reseda’s winsome floral qualities contrast with the green-lactonic facets here.

Wallflower photo – free use

Wallflower: A popular addition to a cottage garden, the wallflower (Erysimum cheiri) was also a theme in early perfumery. Phenolic, herbaceous clove-nutmeg spicy, with a warmly vegetal green floral outline, there are aspects that are like carnation, stock, or phlox, but there is a thyme-esque aspect (there is a high thymol) content that really sets it apart from other florals. Curiously enough, wallflowers happen to be in the cabbage family. While it comes in a wide variety of colors, I am partial to the variety that sports a vivid orange hue. In the copy I own of Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps Volume 1 by W.A. Poucher, there is listed a wallflower base that I compounded during my pursuit in blending, and the outcome was, in a word, sublime.

Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet and Dior Dune photos by Joseph Colbourne©

Serge Lutens’ own signature ode to carnation, Vitriol d’Oeillet, has a supporting note of wallflower, which draws out a somewhat edgier, vegetal-spicy slant in the composition, alongside paprika and pepper. Dior Dune, argued by many to be a masterpiece in design, has a wallflower accord in its kaleidoscope of sweet, salty, earthy, grassy splendor. I would love to see a soliflore ode to the wallflower—perhaps one day I may just create one on my own.

Privet flowers photo – free use

Privet: Privet (Ligustrum). The smell of privet is something I look forward to every June when it blooms where I am in New England. A member of the Oleaceae (olive) family, privets are perhaps best known for their use as privacy hedges (hence their name) and they produce small white blooms in early summer. They emit a distinct, all-enveloping grassy aroma that is somewhat indolic much like jasmine. There is even this oddly sweet quality that reminds me of fermenting hay. One of the materials I acquired and analyzed during my perfume-making studies is Privet Dioxane (5-Methyl-5-propyl-2-(1-methylbutyl)-1,3-dioxane), produced by Kao as Troenan. Its deep green, oddly both watery and oily quality resembles that of the scent released by privet blossoms and is even marketed as indispensable in creating such an accord.

All privet flowers perfumes courtesy of the brands

Truth be told, I have not yet experienced a fragrance that features a privet accord. I have eyed bottles of Demeter Privet online but haven’t much faith that it would be a true representation. I have also been curious about Privet Bloom by Hampton Sun, which appears to still be produced as a roll-on. As a fan of Bertrand Duchaufour’s work, I am quite curious about his contribution to Miller Harris, Hidden on the Rooftops, which apparently has a prominent privet accord. I’d love to hear of recommendations from readers of fragrances that feature privet or have a privet-like quality.

Wisteria photo – free use

Wisteria: There is something magical about standing under the pendulous blooms of wisteria and experiencing both their visual majesty and their aroma. Like broom and sweet pea, it is in the Fabaceae family, and its sweet, musky perfume is reminiscent of concord grape with often the headiness of jasmine and tuberose. There is even a spicy facet that recalls freesia or carnation. The flower is often confused with lilac, and while the two may have some overlap in scent, wisteria is distinct enough that the discerning nose would not mistake it for the former. It is a ’silent flower’ that cannot yield any fragrant material to be used in perfume.

Darren Alan Perfumes Wistful Wisteria via the brand, Totally White 126 and Jo Malone Wisteria & Lavender photos by Joseph Colbourne©

Darren Alan’s Wistful Wisteria, from his Perfume of the Month Club series, is such a magnificent representation of wisteria, showcasing the spicy, heady and musky qualities of their scent. Totally White 126, mentioned above for featuring a hawthorn note, is another excellent reference wisteria. Jo Malone’s Wisteria & Lavender demonstrates that this unlikely pairing really complements each other.

Black Locust Flowers image – photo by Joseph Colbourne©

Black Locust: The Fabaceae family of plants certainly has several species with fragrant flowers, and black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) is certainly no exception. This hardwood deciduous tree, native to the US, produces white blooms in grape-like clusters that have the most delicious, honeyed scent reminiscent musky orange blossom, grape and even mimosa. When they are at their peak, they really throw their aroma, especially at night, and I swear that it can smell so much like vintage Coty L’Origan. There is no known fragrant botanical material that can be extracted from the flower.

Cacharel Eden, Donna Karan Gold and Czech & Speake No. 88 photos by Joseph Colbourne©

The cult-favorite Cacharel Eden has a distinct black locust note in the heart of its curious concoction. While Donna Karan Gold’s leading role is a sensual, narcotic lily, black locust is evident as a satisfying contrast. One of my all-time loves, Czech & Speake No. 88, has what my nose perceives as a prominent, heady black locust among its hypnotic dark rose geranium core.

Pittosporum flowers Image – free use

Pittosporum: Now this plant (Pittosporaceae) has charming small white flowers, and the family has several species with varying intensities of fragrance. There are a number with showier blooms and a stronger scent, which are certain to inspire perfumes. With the headiness of jasmine and narcotic quality of tuberose, what sets these pittosporums apart are their waxy, citrus-zest radiance, giving them also an orange blossom adjacency. They beguile the senses especially after nightfall. One species, Pittosporum tobir, native to Japan, is colloquially known as “Japanese Mock Orange.” Their creamy white flowers can be detected from far away, filling the evening air with the most entrancing balm. Much like the others on this list, it is a mute flower that is unable to yield any oil or absolute.

Tom Ford Neroli Portofino, Neroli Intense from Nicolai Parfumeur Createur and Esteé Lauder Knowing photos by Joseph Colbourne©

Tom Ford Neroli Portofino has a pittosporum accord that extends the neroli through the heart, giving it a certain allure that sets it apart from being merely an elevated 4711. Likewise, Neroli Intense from Nicolai Parfumeur Createur has Patricia de Nicolai incorporating pittosporum to render neroli and orange blossom more narcotic and seductive. The chypre grandeur of Esteé Lauder Knowing, composed by Harry Fremont, features pittosporum among its panoply of flowers, greens, spices and woods.

I could really go on with this list of flowers—there is daphne, phlox, stephanotis, stock. I’d love to hear examples from our readers. What lesser-known fragrant beauties do you feel deserve their time in the limelight?

Joseph Colbourne, Guest Contributor

Disclosure: all perfumes purchased by Joseph

Subscribe to his Substack here

Joseph will be returning for Part 2: Herbs and Part 3: Spices

Thanks to the generosity of Darren Alan Perfumes, we have a 10ml bottle of Wistful Wisteria to give away to one registered reader USA only. You must register for your entry to count. To be eligible, comment on what sparks your interest about these eight lesser known flowers and notes in perfumery? Draw closes 6/14/2026

This is our Privacy Policy

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page. Please “like” ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed, or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.