
Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose me Twice AI-generated collage by Nicoleta
Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose. – Gertrude Stein, Sacred Emily, 1913.
After dedicating his Viaggio in Italia collection to the Mediterranean citrus, Jean-Claude Ellena, who calls himself the Parfumeur Jardinier (the perfumer-gardener)has turned his gaze to flowers. The new trilogy is called Fioriture, and the word, in Italian, says everything Ellena wants to say about the collection. Fioritura is the flowering itself, the moment a plant comes into bloom in Italian. But it is also, by extension, thinking of the French meaning – it is the ornament, the elegant flourish, the last touch – the small embellishment one pins on the jacket at the last moment before stepping out. A little thing, yes, but a highly personal detail that makes all the difference.

Jean-Claude Ellena, image via the brand
In creating Fioriture, Ellena rediscovers and renews a profound bond with Italy, with its light, its botanical culture, and the olfactory richness of its lands. He wants, as the brand puts it, to bring our attention back to scents – to their living and natural presence, too often overshadowed by the more immediate beauty of shapes and colours. We have all of us, grown used to looking at flowers. Ellena invites them to smell them again, in all their natural glory.
The collection takes root in the very origins of perfumery, with three iconic florals: rose, jasmine, and carnation as Rose me Twice, Jasminade, and In_Carnation. Three modern and elegant interpretations that go beyond simple representation, revealing what the brand describes as the most authentic olfactory soul of each flower. With his unmistakable style: balance, transparency, subtraction, Ellena gives the flowers back their most authentic and vibrant dimension.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose me Twice, image via the brand
With over 40,000 varieties, the rose is the flower whose fragrance has been most extensively explored by perfumers, an entire universe in which one can easily lose oneself among its infinite nuances. This exploration took a decisive turn in 1867, when Jean-Baptiste André Guillot (1827–1893), a rosarian working in the Montplaisir district of Lyon, introduced a silvery-pink seedling he named ‘La France’. With it, he gave the world the first hybrid tea rose – and, by historical consensus, the birth of the modern rose itself. La France was a cross between the European hybrid perpetuals and the reblooming China tea roses that had arrived in Europe only decades before, and what made her so revolutionary was not only that she flowered again and again from spring to first frost, but that she carried a new scent: silvery, with a green-leaf transparency, a softness that recalled, fascinatingly, a freshly steeped cup of black tea. The secret of that aroma lies in a specific family of molecules: the ionones. Discovered in 1893 by the German chemists Ferdinand Tiemann and Paul Krüger, ionone is what gives violets their powder-soft fragrance, what gives orris its melancholy elegance, and what gives the tea rose its distinctive green-leaf, freshly-brewed character, and is also a key component in the olfactory impression of tea.

Mood image for Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose me Twice, image via the brand
The composition is almost defiantly minimal. Top: natural rose. Heart: redcurrant. Base: green foliage and white musk. That is the entire list. What you get when you spray it is a fresh-cut rose. Not a dried rose, not a candied rose, not a jammy rose (and as a true rose aficionado – I adore rose in any iteration, don’t get me wrong) – but this is a real rose. The kind you might brush against in the late morning of an Italian garden, with slightly damp petals, still cold from the night dew, green, fresh, and alive with color.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose me Twice AI mood image by Nicoleta
Then redcurrant arrives at the heart, and this is the clever twist of Rose me Twice, the rose doubled. Because redcurrant, the small bright-red juicy wonder does two things at once: it amplifies the natural fruitiness already present in the rose, and it adds a green, almost stem-like crispness that prevents the composition from ever turning syrupy.
At the base, green foliage and white musk do the work of holding the beautiful picture still and fresh for hours. The foliage extends that fresh-stem feeling, you can almost smell the broken green where the gardener’s secateurs cut the stem, while the white musk gives the perfume a soft, luminous skin-warmth.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose me Twice, image via the brand
Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose. Stein wanted the word to return to itself, after too much poetry had turned it into a symbol. Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose me Twice does something similar here with Rose me Twice. The rose blooms once in the name, once on the skin. And in his haiku-like language of light, air, and restraint, the rose, at last, smells alive again.
Top Notes: Natural Rose; Heart Notes: Redcurrant; Base Notes: Green foliage and White Musk
Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor
Disclosure: Perfume kindly gifted by Kaon the Distrubutor; as always, opinions are my own.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose me Twice AI-generated collage by Nicoleta
Thanks to the generosity of Laboratorio Olfattivo‘s distributor Kaon we have a tester bottle of Rose Me Twice for one registered reader in the EU or USA ONLY. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Nicoleta’s review and where you live. Draws closes June 21, 2026
Check out J’s review of Underground Vibes here, Nicoleta’s review of Oud in White here, Steven’s review of Amberbomb here. J’s review of Jasminade from the collection here
Read Michelyn’s interview with Jean-Claude Ellena here
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