Laboratorio Olfattivo In_Carnation via the brand

“To the Elysian shades dismiss my soul, where no carnation fades.” ~ Alexander Pope

Jean-Claude Ellena Courtesy of the brand

Hurrah for the carnation! Maître Parfumeur Jean-Claude Ellena extols its loveliness in his recent celebration of fragrant Italian blossoms, the Fioriture Collection for Laboratorio Olfattivo: In_Carnation. I first learned of this fragrance from Ermano Picco’s reports from  Diffusioni Olfattive and Esxence 2026, (he contacted me and assured me that it was spectacular. And on his  recommendation, I ordered a bottle for myself, blind. Suffice it to say that I’m thrilled that I did.)

It’s no coincidence that the carnation was first named by Greek botanist Theophrastus in approximately 300 BCE: dianthus, derived from dios (divine, of Zeus) and anthos (flower): Flower of the Gods.

“Without any particular reason he remembered the Mexican name for carnations. They called them Clavos de Amor—nails of love.” ~ John Steinbeck, East of Eden, 1952.

Botanical illustration in the style of Pierre Redoute AI Michelyn

Steinbeck was correct – but he didn’t elaborate. The Spanish word clavos (from the Latin clavus) does indeed translate as ‘nail’ – but it also refers to the clove bud, as cloves resemble that particular shape – and their unique aroma is often evoked by the employment of clove (or its isolates). Carnations may be recognized by several other names: oeillet (French), clavel (Spanish), Nelke (German), and Garofano (Italian), to list but a few. Lovers of the carnation may have come across these appellations in their search for the perfect fragrance – and perfumers in many countries have shared their adoration for centuries. It appears that carnation is experiencing a bit of a renaissance lately, and this eugenol-intense flower has been more visible in fragrances these days. I personally welcome this trend, as I staunchly believe that no flower falls from grace simply because it isn’t overtly in the public eye or nose.

Laboratorio Olfattivo In_Carnation image courtesy of the brand

Trends and fashion are capricious. Each year, there is a specific color which appears repeatedly (think Pantone©) – and fragrances predicated upon a particular flower: they pop up everywhere. While the carnation has never completely disappeared from perfumery, it has often assumed a supporting role, providing welcome warm, spicy, peppery, and sometimes smoky facets. Carnation has suffered the fate of many flowers – its association with the bygone eras by an upcoming generation. Many of the great perfumes of yesteryear are/were worn by their parents and grandparents – which translates to them as dated. Carnations are also burdened with correlations: funerals, dandies, its rarity and cost, IFRA restrictions of its usage due to the presence of isoeugenol and eugenol (an important part of the flower’s scent profile). They have come to symbolize an amazing array of affiliations: with May Day and Women’s Day in socialist countries and the labor movement; in Korea, they are worn for both Parent’s and Teacher’s Day; green carnations and homosexuality, thanks to Oscar Wilde (and green carnations!); funerals (particularly in France); and weddings in China.  Carnations come in nearly every hue in the rainbow, and each has its own meaning; they are too numerous to elaborate upon here. The very first recognized carnation-forward fragrance to garner acclaim is believed to be François Coty’s beloved L’Origan, in 1905. Jacques Guerlain’s glorious L’Heure Bleue later appeared upon the scented scene in 1912.

The Fioriture Collection courtesy of the brand

With the exception of earlier work (Van Cleef & A rpels First is a stunning example!) and the rare instance (such as Essence Rare for Houbigant in 2018), we have come to view Jean-Claude Ellena’s overall body of compositions as the zenith of how-to-create-more-with-less perfumery at its finest. My initial introduction to the master’s work was in 1974. I have not yet sampled Monsieur Ellena’s other two newest releases for Laboratorio Olfattivo Jasminade and Rose Me Twice each has been beautifully reviewed by my colleagues Senior Editors J WeareScentient and Nicoleta and I look forward to them eagerly. Carnation has always figured prominently in my perfumed pantheon, as I am a devotee of so many vintage fragrances which embrace it – in particular, the original Patous – and is why I magnetically gravitated towards In_Carnation (and yes, I adore roses and jasmine, too).

via Unsplash

Only three notes are cited, carnation, rose, and vanilla (surely there are more). I was ensnared immediately upon contact. In_Carnation haunts us with its intimacy, its smoldering delicate tendrils and profoundly carnal + spiritual duality. Because this eau de parfum is diaphanous, it can be sprayed quite liberally without overpowering one’s personal orbit. I view this as a positive attribute, because it can be a pleasure to be able to control the throw and volume of one’s perfume. I happen to possess a strong personality, but that doesn’t necessarily augur a desire to encroach upon another’s space. With Laboratorio Olfattivo In_Carnation, we are given a choice regarding our fragrant dosage – and that may be a rarity in this era of often high-pitched, long lasting scents. I perceive this composition as a wonderful representative of per fumum – through smoke. I wish that I could imbibe it, roll in it, bathe in it. I want it everywhere. I am besotted. If I gush or wax poetic, there is good reason: In_Carnation is among the most exquisite fragrances I have experienced thus far in 2026. There are many gorgeous perfumes out there, and I appreciate them – but this particular one is extraordinary in its ability to communicate with so few olfactory materials. For that to occur, one requires the hands of a master. Arcibravo, Monsieur Ellena.

Notes: carnation, rose, vanilla

 I purchased my bottle. My nose is my own…

 ~Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Laboratorio Olfattivo we have a100 ml tester bottle of Laboratorio Olfattivo In_Carnation for one registered reader in the EU or USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparked your interest Ida’s review, and where you live. Draw closes 7/10/2026

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