J’s image of Etat Libre D’Orange Above The Waves.
Etat Libre D’Orange has unveiled its latest perfume, Above The Waves, composed by perfumer Mathieu Nardin of Mane. Above The Waves pays tribute to the Taiwanese Goddess Mazu and the annual pilgrimage held in her honour, which begins at the Dajia Jenn Lann temple and proceeds to Taichung. The journey encompasses over 170 stops at 170 temples located in Taichung, Changhua, Yunlin, and Chiayi. Nardin emphasizes two key elements that is at the heart of Above The Waves, both of which are tied to Taiwanese traditions: tea and incense. It’s a beautiful homage that makes me think of how an ocean was once a mountain, as the materials intertwine in a cyclical dance throughout the wear of Above The Waves.
Founder and Creative Director Etienne de Swardt of Etat Libre D’Orange and perfumer Mathieu Nardin.
Etat Libre D’Orange Above The Waves opens with a fresh splash of creamy sparkling fresh citruses and spice; like a cooling mist formed by the sea and its slow descent back to earth through soft branches evolving into a spiced smoke as its draws closer to the ground. The incense feels fresh and green giving Above The Waves a meditative feel, it’s like a gentle thought of nature that’s swirling and expanding, like the movement over time as clouds becomes waves.
Tea fields of Taiwan and image of the Goddess Mazu courtesy of Etat Libre D’Orange.
Cardamom’s soft creamy spice adds to this ease; it gives a classic elegance to the opening while its spicier flicker- like sparks of new concepts. You can feel the edges of woods forming as bergamot’s woody facets start to lean into more verdant tones, foreshadowing what’s to come. The aromatics grow warm with a subtle clary sage as an array of complex tea aromas give body to this cool watery incense mist. Perfumer Mathieu Nardin handles this deftly, letting the trio of teas tease out subtle facets that shimmer through the soft musky green haze of Above The Waves.
Ceylon tea’s honeyed floral tones sit high in this incense haze, floral apricot aromas tease out a playful softness that’s a lovely counterpoint to the more herbaceous hay like aroma found in maté tea, whose darker side is lightened here, feeling more like a whisper of green smoke rather than its danker leather aspects. Above The Waves has a soft transparent feel as you wear it, its airy and light drawing you in with its soft beauty while being quietly complex as you mediate on its quiet complexities. Ludwig Wittgenstein’s “a simple thought can last a thousand years” comes to mind, connecting with the tea traditions celebrated here.
Image of the Goddess Mazu and pilgrimage with materials courtesy of Etat Libre D’Orange.
Etat Libre D’Orange Above The Waves beautifully captures the meditative feel of contemplating the soft steam from the aromatic tea as it swirls with incense smoke letting the waves of nature roll over you. The black tea is an anchor point between the two other teas, a connection between these worlds as its binds them and become one rich aroma whose soft haze summons a gentle verdant rose to bloom. Cardamom conjures the sleek green elegance of the stem and the rose’s silky petals that are about to unfurl, blending with the teas. The spiced warmth of rose is joined by the elegant richness of patchouli giving it a restrained yet regal feel.
Courtesy of Etat Libre D’Orange.
There’s a beautiful harmony in the ingredients used in Above The Waves. It’s a stunning homage to its inspiration the Taiwanese Goddess Mazu allowing the tea rituals and spirituality to radiate. The tonka bean in Above The Waves continues this flow picking up from the cardamom’s creaminess giving it a touch of vanilla while its warmth is toned down letting the more gingery facets of the tonka bring a comforting glow.
Illustrator and graphic novel author Marie Mohanna and her artwork for Etat Libre D’Orange Above The Waves courtesy of Etat Libre D’Orange.
Cedar from Taiwan is used extend the incense facets too, while adding more woodiness to the base. Above The Waves stays green and fresh with a subtle smokiness from vetiver, again elongating the smoky, subtle aspects of the teas. Its cyclical nature is a joy to experience, giving a lovely spin on a classic aromatic style. The special artwork by illustrator and graphic novel author Marie Mohanna, design captures the flow of the elegant materials in Above The Waves. This is a beautiful perfume that puts me in a tranquil headspace when I wear it. Meditative elegance.
Notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Incense, Green Maté, Ceylan, Black Tea, Rose, Tonka Bean, Patchouli, Cedar, Vetiver.
J Wearescentient, Senior Editor, artist and olfactive writer.
Discloser: A bottle of Etat Libre d’Orange Above The Waves was sent to J for review, his nose and thoughts are his own.
Etat Libre D’Orange Above The Waves courtesy of Etat Libre D’Orange.
Thanks to the generosity of Etat Libre d’Orange we have a 100 ml bottle of Above The Waves for one registered reader in the USA or EU. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on J’s review and where you live. Draw closes 10/2/2025
Available in the USA October 1, 2025
Please read Etienne de Swardt’s Creative Director in Perfumery (his own words).
Secretions Magnifique was inducted into our ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces Hall of Fame.
Mathieu Nardin was featured in our Young Perfumer Series
Read J’s review of Nostos here, Olya’s review of The Story of Your Life, Karl’s review of Clean Suede and Nicoleta’s reviews of Frustration, Ghost in the Shell, and Rien. Frustration was in Olya’s Top 10 Best Scents of 2023. For Nicoleta, Ghost in The Shell was a 2021 Top 10 Best of Scent.
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