Esxence 2026 Edition 16 Photo courtesy of Esxence Official

The question perfume journalists bring home from Esxence, the world’s leading niche fragrance exhibition, is rarely about individual discoveries. More often, it is about broader movements. After several years dominated by gourmands and amber woods, it was refreshing to encounter a much richer creative palette. Sweetness no longer seems to dominate the conversation. Again and again, I encountered brands exploring unexpected materials, forgotten flowers, new interpretations of freshness, and ideas that felt driven by creative conviction rather than market expectations. That was perhaps the most encouraging trend of all. I found myself noticing three broader themes that appeared again and again throughout the exhibition: new interpretations of freshness, the return of forgotten notes, and a renewed spirit of creative freedom.

The New Freshness

 

GNTONIC Virgin Esxence 2026 Edition 16 Photo Tamara

My first breath of fresh air came at the M. Micallef stand. There I not only smelled GNTonic Virgin, a brilliantly refreshing fragrance that lives up perfectly to its name, but quite literally tasted it as well. The presentation combined perfume with gastronomy: visitors were offered an edible sphere filled with a gin-tonic-inspired liquid. Bursting the sphere added a playful, multisensory dimension to the experience, transforming a simple perfume launch into something closer to an experiment. GNTONIC Virgin is a reinvention of the brand’s 2023 bestseller GNTonic, created without an alcohol-based formula and built around LIQUAPURE™ technology. Citrusy, minty, sparkling, and invigorating, it felt like an apt symbol of the fresh energy I would encounter throughout the exhibition. @parfumsmicallef

Etat Libre d’Orange Photo Let’s Pretend by Tamara at Esxence 2026 Edition16

The next wave of excitement came at the Etat Libre d’Orange stand. Their new fragrance, with the playfully ironic name Let’s Pretend, quite literally gave me a feeling of lift-off. This is, to my mind, an entirely new kind of freshness, one that relies neither on aquatics nor on citrus notes, the traditional pillars of fresh perfumery. Here, transparent watery fruits float on an equally transparent and airy base built around… Akigalawood. As we all know, Akigalawood is not exactly famous for its good manners. It tends to elbow every other note aside, push itself to the forefront, and dominate a composition from start to finish. I generally cannot stand fragrances where it behaves this way. Yet perfumer Nisrine Grillié has somehow achieved the impossible: she has tamed it. Disciplined it. Prevented it from drowning out the rest of the orchestra. The result is remarkable. Rather than overwhelming the fruity notes, Akigalawood seems to support them, lending them lift, weightlessness, mystery, and, of course, an extraordinary trail. They are also celebrating their 20^th anniversary.  @etatlibreorange @etiennedeswardt @nisrine_nisrine_grillie

L’Eau Très Mer Esxence 2026 Edition 16 Photo by Tamara

A breath of fresh air also came from the sea, thanks to Andrea Rubini. An artist whose entire body of work is dedicated to the idea of exploring new horizons, Rubini presented L’Eau Très Mer, a fragrance inspired by a day in the life of Jacques Cousteau returning from one of his underwater expeditions. We have seen no shortage of marine fragrances over the years, yet rarely have salty freshness and marine air been paired with such a vivid accord of alcohol and tobacco. The effect achieved by Cristiano Canali is both unexpected and remarkably refreshing. More importantly, this unusual combination retains all of its facets from start to finish. It never collapses into mere freshness or simple booziness, maintaining a delicate balance between its contrasting voices, which seem to grow even clearer and more expressive as the fragrance develops. @rubini_profumi  @cristianocanali

 Veritas Esxence 2026 16^th Edition by Tamara

 Veritas Parfums draws inspiration from the work of Dutch photographic artist Bas Meeuws, whose contemporary floral compositions echo the richness and drama of Dutch still-life painting. Among the collection, Infinitum stood out for me. Its marine theme creates a compelling tension between darkness and light, as if descending into deep waters while still sensing a distant glow below the surface. I was pleased to see the return of marine inspirations at Esxence this year. @VeritasParfums

Pissara Umavijani Esxence 2026 Edition 6 shows the upcomingrelease Mocha Absolu photo Tamara

 When Pissara Umavijani was a little girl walking along the banks of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River with her father, she would gaze in fascination at the majestic Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Years later, that little girl became one of contemporary perfumery’s most distinctive voices and created Light of Bangkok, Dusita Paris  to celebrate the hotel’s 150th anniversary. I have never been to Bangkok, but I can confidently say that the word “Light” in the fragrance’s name is entirely justified. Built around lemongrass, a softly powdered iris heart, and an airy woody-green base, the composition seems to glow from within. It is yet another source of oxygen for those who have grown weary of sweetness and amberwoods, and another compelling interpretation of modern freshness. She also showed us the upcoming Mocha Absolu @parfumsdusita @ploiuma

The Return of Forgotten Notes

To my delight, there were surprisingly many of the “forgotten” notes at this year’s exhibition. This was especially true of florals, which today are often perceived as either old-fashioned or too modest when compared to the exuberance of modern tuberoses and jasmines.

 Laboratorio Olfattivo Courtesy of Instagram Esxence 2026 

Laboratorio Olfattivo presented three fragrances by Jean-Claude Ellena: Rose Me Twice, Jasminade, and In_Carnation. A green, fresh, powdery rose, a mouthwatering fruity jasmine, and… a carnation. The only carnation soliflore I can immediately think of is Philtre by Hiram Green, and that is perhaps the entire list. To make carnation, a flower many people associate with the perfumes of their grandmothers, feel genuinely desirable is quite an achievement. This one is so soft, so intimate, so warm. It whispers rather than speaks. It reminded us that perfume can be something deeply personal, something shared only with those closest to us, rather than a tool for announcing our presence before we enter a room. @danielacaon@robertodrago1@laboratorioolfattivo

Jacques Fath 12 Victor Hugo Esxence 2026 Photo by Tamara

Another flower burdened by poor publicity is lavender. That is why I found it particularly brave that Rania Naim chose it as the central note of 12 Victor Hugo, Jacques Fath’s tribute to the house’s first Paris boutique. With his unmistakable touch as a subtle and sophisticated artist, Jean-Christophe Hérault wove lavender together with tonka bean, adding a measure of magic and charm, and created one of the most elegant and captivating compositions I have ever encountered. @jacquesfathparfums @jeanchristopheherault

 Nicolai Parfumeur Createur Patchouli Spirit by Tamara Esxence 2026 Edition 16

Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur also brought encouraging news: their bestseller of the past year has been Patchouli Spirit, a 2025 release built around the timeless theme of patchouli, cooled by a touch of lavender and warmed by the comforting breath of cinnamon. I find the return of such classical themes deeply reassuring. Over the past few years, many of these traditional notes seemed to have lost their relevance, pushed aside by newer trends and louder ideas. @nicolaïparfumeurcréateur

Risk And Creative Freedom

Nobile 1942 Sine Gloria by Tamara Esxence 2026 

I was genuinely surprised by Nobile 1942, a brand I have always associated with a calm and measured aesthetic, creating fragrances that are elegant, balanced, and immediately approachable. And then came Sine Gloria, by Kevin Mathys, a fragrance celebrating antiheroes, outsiders, and those who refuse to fit neatly into society’s expectations, complete with notes of cannabis and ayahuasca. The composition itself mirrors this spirit of contrast, juxtaposing an invigorating bitter-green herbal accord with a warm, sweet, and deeply resonant base. The result is unusual, highly distinctive, and astonishingly long-lasting. The bottle is spectacular, the concept deeply compelling, and one that will resonate with anyone who has ever felt out of step with the world around them. I was genuinely delighted by this bold new creative direction. Not because I loved the old Nobile 1942 any less, but because there is something profoundly exciting about watching boundaries expand. @nobile1942 @kevin.mathysperfumer

 

 Jijide Talea by Tamara Esxence 2026 

Perhaps the boldest floral experiment of all came from Jijide, whose new fragrance Talea by Tianle Feng, is dedicated to chrysanthemum, a flower saddled with a particularly difficult reputation in Western culture. This is more than a perfume; it is a cultural exploration aimed at rehabilitating the chrysanthemum and the associations it carries, highlighting how dramatically its symbolism differs from one culture to another. The result is a fragrance of remarkable depth and mystery, one whose secrets we will only begin to unravel when it officially launches in September. @jijide.milano @michaelfengtianle

Photo courtesy of Filippo Sorcinelli

What fascinates me most about Filippo Sorcinelli is the consistency of his artistic vision. While many brands chase trends, Sorcinelli continues to explore his own territory, where scent, music, memory, and ritual become part of the same experience. The fragrances of his new series Extrait de Musique (Organ #1, Organ 2#, Organ #3, Organ #4, Organ #5 Organ #6, Organ #7) are inspired by organ music, yet they ultimately speak about something larger: how certain moments shape us and linger long after they have passed. In a world increasingly driven by novelty, such fidelity to one’s own artistic language feels both rare and refreshing. @filippo_sorcinelli

 

Kajal Dahab Absolu and booth by Tamara Esxence 2026 Edition 16

One might have expected Kajal to remain firmly rooted in the territory of ripe exotic fruits, given the extraordinary success these fragrances have enjoyed with audiences. Instead, the brand took the fruit theme in an unexpected chypre direction, placing mango and other luscious fruits alongside a rose heart and a base of oakmoss. The result is Dahab Absolu by Patrick Muller; magnificent: delicious yet elegant, rich yet refined, with a depth and charm that make it impossible to forget @kajalperfumes  @luzi.official @patrice_des dieux

NVRAGN creative director Daniel Liatowitsch by Tamara Esxence 2026 

One of the most memorable encounters of the exhibition was my conversation with the creative director Daniel Liatowitsch of NVRANGN. Behind each fragrance lies a deeply personal story, sometimes rooted in profound happiness, sometimes born from losses almost too painful to imagine. This is perfumery as a way of making sense of life and continuing to embrace it in all its complexity. My personal favorite was Reunion, a fragrance about love rediscovered (Nicoleta’s review here), and quite simply the most beautiful fluffy musk I have ever smelled. @nvrnagn @masterofscent.switzerland

Tamara with  perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche

Puredistance hosted an intimate presentation of its latest launch outside the main venue together with perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche. Ambragio is a warm amber-vanilla composition that creative director Jan Ewoud Os described as “a warm hug,” while I experienced it as deeply sensual. Perhaps that is because vanilla, alongside musk, has always been one of the most seductive notes in perfumery for me, provided it is not pastry-like, but rather the refined and elegant vanilla Stéphanie has created here. Why does it belong in the category of creative freedom? Because the only brief Jan gave Stéphanie was astonishingly simple: “Make the fragrance you want to make.”

My Personal Favorites

 

Prin Parfums Night Rider by Tamara

 After my meeting with Prin Lomros, I completely lost track of where I was supposed to go next. For a moment, I had been transported into an entirely different world. The collections of his three brands felt like a roller coaster ride through imagination itself: exquisitely crafted fragrances with a vintage character, the ethereal Pink Clouds, an aldehydic floral musk that matches its name perfectly, and, Night Rider for those who prefer something more daring, creations featuring notes of asphalt, rubber, and gasoline. At the end of our meeting, Prin handed me a sample and said, “Spray it at home. Not here, or people around us might suffer.” He then told me what it smelled like. I am not going to tell you. And, truthfully, I still have not sprayed it. @prin_official_prin

 Siam 1928 Esxence 2026 Edition16 by Tamara

Siam1928, one of my favorite houses, never fails to surprise and enchant me. I am a complete admirer of Nutt Wesshasartar’s work. Among this year’s launches, Elation, released under his second brand Voyager, impressed me the most. It is the finest lily-of-the-valley fragrance I have ever encountered. That is neither a compliment nor an exaggeration. This is what angels smell like. Elation is the perfect name for it. @siam1928 @nuttwess

Astrophil & Stella Sambalia and Pepperkorn Photo courtesy of Astrophil & Stella

Astrophil & Stella presented two remarkable new fragrances: PepperKorn a resinous pepper creation by Mark Buxton and Sambalia a luminous floral aldehydic composition by Michele Marin that won me over from the very first spray once I had the chance to test it properly at home. Here again was that return of forgotten materials, delicate flowers, and aldehydes, which I rarely enjoy in vintage perfumery but adore in contemporary interpretations. Two sprays in my hair created an aura of pure delight that stayed with me all day. I could hardly believe how beautifully it unfolded on my skin. @astrophilstellaperfume @buxton.mark @marin_infragrantiparfumeur

Neela Vermeire Display by Neela Vermeire© Esxence 2026

I was equally delighted to finally meet Neela Vermeire. I already heard her fragrances were exceptional, how could they not be, with Bertrand Duchaufour behind them, but it was wonderful to experience them firsthand. Two fragrances completely stole my heart. The first was the tuberose-centered Eshal, (reviewed by Ida here) As a devoted tuberose lover, I am forever declaring, “This is it, the perfect tuberose!” Eshal is one of those rare fragrances that truly deserves the title. The second was Rahel (Ermano’s review here), built around osmanthus, another note for which I have a particular weakness. In fact, I broke my own rule of never applying fragrance at the show and sprayed it directly on my arm. The most delicate, juicy, luminous osmanthus imaginable.  @neelavermeirecreations @bertrand.duchaufour

 Angelos Balamis of Angelos Créations Olfactives by Tamara

But this was not the only time I broke my own rule. By the end of my meeting with the extraordinary perfumer Angelos Balamis outside the venue, I had practically drenched myself in his new fragrance Pothos, Angelos Créations Olfactives, built around honeysuckle. Just as with lily of the valley, I had spent years searching for a believable honeysuckle perfume. After all, it is one of the most beautiful floral scents in nature. At last, I found it. And what a creation it is. Constructed according to the finest classical traditions of perfumery, it unfolds slowly and magnificently, revealing new facets throughout the day, captivating both through its radiant trail and through the soft traces it leaves behind in your hair the following morning. A masterpiece. @angelos_creations_olfactives @angel_bal

Tamara Gezerdava, Contributor

Photo courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Dusita Paris we have a 15ml x3 travel set which includes Issara, Erwan, and Moonlight in Chiangmai for one registered user from US, UK, EU and Canada. You must register or your entry will not count. Please leave a quality comment with what perfumes captured your imagination that you find most interesting based on Tamara’s very extensive Esxence 2026 report and where you live where you live. Draw closes 6/23/26

Please revisit our Esxence 2026 event reports: Kristina’s Part 1 here and Oli’s Part 2

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